Gold problems on 106 xl

CD74 jackie

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Joined
2008
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5
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england,uk
Been running a 106xl for a few months now and only real problem has been with golds. Any tips on how to avoid emulsification and how to achieve strong colour without catch up? Any help much appreciated.
 
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  • It is my feeling that its very difficult to run any metallic ink up to full strength, for more than about 1000 impressions. The suggestion for a double hit of metallic was a good one if you can spare the extra unit, extra plate, extra washup, and extra time. If its a run of more than 1000 impressions ,I would suggest taking either a half step, or even a full step up in the PMS book. For example.... your customer specs pms 872 gold. You load the fountain with either a 50\50 mix of 872 and 873. Or you could just take a full step up and run 873. The step up will not give you a true 872 hue but it will come pretty close WITHOUT the inking problems associated with running the spec ink. The higher number will be a richer color that you will be able to better control when run down a bit, resulting in much more stable inking. If you decide not to tell anyone about your color swap you can be pretty certain that nobody will notice. I won't tell if you don't tell!!!
     
    It is my feeling that its very difficult to run any metallic ink up to full strength, for more than about 1000 impressions. The suggestion for a double hit of metallic was a good one if you can spare the extra unit, extra plate, extra washup, and extra time. If its a run of more than 1000 impressions ,I would suggest taking either a half step, or even a full step up in the PMS book. For example.... your customer specs pms 872 gold. You load the fountain with either a 50\50 mix of 872 and 873. Or you could just take a full step up and run 873. The step up will not give you a true 872 hue but it will come pretty close WITHOUT the inking problems associated with running the spec ink. The higher number will be a richer color that you will be able to better control when run down a bit, resulting in much more stable inking. If you decide not to tell anyone about your color swap you can be pretty certain that nobody will notice. I won't tell if you don't tell!!!

    Haha, yes I forgot about going a step up, I routinely did that very thing.
     
    Thanks very much for your help all good shouts. I found upping the ipa 1% helped too but like you say the more impressions the worst it becomes. Who'd be a printer eh!!
     
    And do you run integrated?
     
    metal ink brings us all the time worries but I think I found the solution on my press XL 106 low UV. I decided to change the ink mark because the one I used to go up a lot in emulsion and I could not handle the stability of the machine.. sorry for my english
     
    MAKE SURE YOUR METALLIC COLOR IS ALWAYS FIRST DOWN AND INCREASE THE VEHICLE IN THE INK BY REDUCING WITH JELL.
     
    MAKE SURE YOUR METALLIC COLOR IS ALWAYS FIRST DOWN AND INCREASE THE VEHICLE IN THE INK BY REDUCING WITH JELL.
    This is bad advice unless the metallic ink sits all by itself on the sheet. If the metallic comes in contact with any of the other colors when reduced and ran in the first position, you will encounter trapping issues. Often it in required to increase the tack of the metallic ink in order to get proper trapping. This tack increase can be done with a generous helping of water repellant varnish or body gum.
     
    This is bad advice unless the metallic ink sits all by itself on the sheet. If the metallic comes in contact with any of the other colors when reduced and ran in the first position, you will encounter trapping issues. Often it in required to increase the tack of the metallic ink in order to get proper trapping. This tack increase can be done with a generous helping of water repellant varnish or body gum.
    When it comes to trap standard its always first down ink on paper equals your trap standard to be measured from. If gold or silver is not down first you will get halo effect, although we have we have run metallics down last under certain circumstances. KAB Hasbro\Milton Bradley
     
    When it comes to trap standard its always first down ink on paper equals your trap standard to be measured from. If gold or silver is not down first you will get halo effect, although we have we have run metallics down last under certain circumstances. KAB Hasbro\Milton Bradley

    I recommend first down as well but it doesn't necessarily matter what order you print a metallic ink, as long as you understand that it's an opaque ink when you determine the print order. Printed first or last is not usually as important as whether or not it's printing over/under, or knocked-out.
     
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    I like to add ink reducer to the ink and a bridge roller on the water form.
     
    When it comes to trap standard its always first down ink on paper equals your trap standard to be measured from. If gold or silver is not down first you will get halo effect, although we have we have run metallics down last under certain circumstances. KAB Hasbro\Milton Bradley

    if we were to follow your advice, where the first down ink sets the trapping standard, then think of all the work involved to get all the following inks to trap on top of the "reduced" metallic ink printed first down. I know that I don't want to be the person who has to wear out my wrists and hands mixing reducer into 4 or 5 or 6 different colors that follow your "trap standard!!!" It's tiring, time consuming, requires additional material, and most importantly creates a deviation from the standards that are set down by an ink manufacturer. I ALWAYS strive to print inks directly out of the can whenever possible, and you should too.
     
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