Guidance on a matte spot varnish for text only

Before moving directly to an expensive matte spot varnish press proof, I would first ask the printer whether they can use a low-gloss or matte LED UV black ink for the text itself.

Since UV LED is a curing system, not a finish by itself, the issue may be better addressed through the ink formulation rather than by adding a corrective varnish afterward. A matte or low-gloss LED UV black ink — and a low-gloss formulation for the Pantone gray text if needed — would likely be a cleaner solution than trying to spot-varnish fine type.

I would ask the printer to consult their ink supplier specifically for a “low-gloss / matte LED UV offset black ink” suitable for sheetfed offset on matte coated paper. At minimum, the supplier should be able to provide a drawdown or sample on the actual stock before committing to a costly press proof.
Thank you - this was my initial response as well, six months ago, for the first proof when this fact about the UV process on this stock surfaced, and I requested then matte formulations for the text ink, and even sourced matte inks for them. They use Toyo ink exclusively, and speaking directly with Toyo branch offices in Europe (again trying to assist the printer, who maintains they cannot change things), was informed Toyo abandoned matte formulations 8 years ago due to myriad issues with them. I found, in consultation with a company chemist, the matte binder additive, and proposed mixing it, and briefly discussed with Toyo mixing a special batch. Toyo and the printer refused. Glare is fine on richly saturated photos, but clearly detrimental to body text and fine annotations in a long, scholarly text. I've used every strategy and tactic to advance my case that I can conceive of and hit a wall for months - no workaround is being allowed, other than the marginally successful OPV on letterforms (very costly, and unsuccessful on the annotations) or flood.

The printer refuses, despite all reasonable pleas, to ever do drawdowns. Trying a new spot color for annotations? Full on press proof. Hundreds of photos have been calibrated and retouched, at considerable expense with a couple hundred hours of effort, in order to work well on this stock and with their process. I'm locked in by this. The constraints, despite my commitment, are proving, after many months, truly immovable. The forum sees workarounds other printers may embrace.

The stock's natural texture even in unprinted areas, is altered by the process somehow, and the options for removing sheen seem limited to OPV on letterforms or flood coat. I've been utterly dedicated to avoiding compromises up to this point on this high-value, legacy edition of a renowned architect's writings and work, but now must concede: 1. the stock will never have its natural texture from the mill samples, and 2. the options for cutting text glare are limited (by this printer) to OPV on text or flood coating. It seems worth it to embrace one or the other, but not ideal.
 
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Since the tactile difference between the original A4 sample sheets remains so great compared with the actual printed stock, I'm perhaps no longer committed to avoiding flood coating, if it's more effective and less expensive than the current approach.
This perception about the tactile feel is very similar to the perception about gloss lowering over time (post-cure, dry-back, dry-down). It's a subjective opinion. UV cures to a 100% solid film, like plastic! This may make the printed paper "feel" more rigid and stiff than the virgin unprinted sheet? An overall flood coat may make this worse? There are lab test measurements that can quantify this with objective values. Does the unprinted production paper "feel" the same as the A4 mill sample?
Steve — circling back to something you asked: does the unprinted production paper feel the same as the A4 mill sample? Answer is no, and we've since nailed down a fair bit more.

It's not just feel — there's a clear water-drop difference. A4 samples and a 340-page bound dummy of each stock (genuine bulk paper, never printed, never near a press) absorb a drop more immediately. The blank areas on the actual printed proofs, same papers, without varnish, don't — the drop sits and beads more rather than soaking in.

Ruled out ambient humidity: proof and sample have been sitting side by side in humid Taiwan for months, no narrowing of the gap, which a moisture-equilibration effect should have produced by now.

Ruled out anything mill-side: it happens identically on Arctic Volume and Sappi Magno Volume — two unrelated manufacturers — and in both cases the untouched bulk dummy still matches the original sample today. So whatever's doing this isn't in how either mill makes or finishes the paper, it seems. It only shows up on sheets that have actually been through this printer's press, and the printer states there's no AQ.

One more wrinkle: comparing blank margins on an early proof (CMYK + Pantone spot) against a later proof of the same job with one more pass added (a spot UV varnish on text), the unprinted areas feel identical between the two. Whatever this is doesn't seem to be accumulating with each additional pass — looks more like it's mostly or entirely done after the base color passes, not progressing further from there.

So: real, permanent, present on unprinted areas, common to two unrelated paper brands, tied specifically to having gone through this press rather than to the paper as supplied (it seems), and apparently not scaling with additional passes. Repeated impression-cylinder pressure, AI says is a candidate since it's the one variable every sheet shares regardless of brand or local ink coverage, but I'm not convinced ordinary sheetfed pressure gets you this higher water beading effect rather than just some smoothing and stiffening. Does that fit anything you've actually seen on press, or does the water-repellency part point you somewhere else entirely?
 
  • Hi Davino,

    Does that fit anything you've actually seen on press, or does the water-repellency part point you somewhere else entirely?
    Repeated impression pressure, between the rubber offset blanket and hard metal impression or back cylinder, from multiple colors or additional press passes, will not change the papers physical property of porosity or absorptivity to a liquid. This water repellency characteristic is done by the paper mill by adding either internal or external surface "sizing", basically a starch.
    While printing adds ink to the paper, lithography also adds water to paper too. This water is a special mixture called dampening fountain solution and is needed to provide separation between the image (ink) and non-image area (water) on the plate.
    I can't think of anything that would explain what you are observing?
    Earlier I showed you the method to identify the presence of AQ coating by using a water-based magic marker across the lead gripper edge of the press sheet. The unprinted gripper edge will absorb the marker, the AQ coated area will repel the water and bead up.
    Were your press proofs printed on one side only or backed up and printed on both sides?
    If 1-side only, examine the difference between both sides more closely. Perform the marker test on both sides. Also, a UV black light (flashlight) at the gripper edge may show some fluorescence differences in the paper, due to paper or coating?
     
    It sounds like you're over analyzing this project. There are so many issues for you. If I read correctly, you were going to spot matte on the text? You had colour variation with your PMS. You talked about yellowing.
    The colour you want for your PMS is a created colour and open to interpretation for pressmen. Have your ink company create that colour, get a formula, get a colour swatch that shows the colour with gloss and matte. The pressman will have a constant to go by.
    Again, if I read correctly, there was sheen difference on the PMS. All inks will have a different appearance due to the properties used to make colours.
    I would suggest this and it's pretty simple. Strikethrough matte varnish with a gloss AQ coating. The matte varnish prints on areas you want a matte appearance. All pictures and gutters for binding are knocked out. The gloss AQ is applied overall with knockout areas for binding, (if youre perfect binding the book). The AQ reacts with the varnish leaving the matte area dull and your pictures glossy.
    Have the shop doing your printing ask their supplier for the proper products.
    You're being charged so much for, not just one sheet, you could probably get several hundred. You're paying for stock and and all the material and time involved to do a press make ready. All of that takes time and money.
     
    It sounds like you're over analyzing this project. There are so many issues for you. If I read correctly, you were going to spot matte on the text? You had colour variation with your PMS. You talked about yellowing.
    The colour you want for your PMS is a created colour and open to interpretation for pressmen. Have your ink company create that colour, get a formula, get a colour swatch that shows the colour with gloss and matte. The pressman will have a constant to go by.
    Again, if I read correctly, there was sheen difference on the PMS. All inks will have a different appearance due to the properties used to make colours.
    I would suggest this and it's pretty simple. Strikethrough matte varnish with a gloss AQ coating. The matte varnish prints on areas you want a matte appearance. All pictures and gutters for binding are knocked out. The gloss AQ is applied overall with knockout areas for binding, (if youre perfect binding the book). The AQ reacts with the varnish leaving the matte area dull and your pictures glossy.
    Have the shop doing your printing ask their supplier for the proper products.
    You're being charged so much for, not just one sheet, you could probably get several hundred. You're paying for stock and and all the material and time involved to do a press make ready. All of that takes time and money.
    Thanks for the response. Worth laying out the fuller arc here since a few replies in this thread are answering an earlier version of the problem.

    This is a 400-page scholarly edition, six years in production, moved to this European printer from Taiwan specifically because the intended stock (Arctic Volume White, and Sappi Magno as a comparison) is matte and tactile — no varnish was ever the plan — and Taiwanese printers insisted they couldn't trust working with it in Taiwan unless I agreed to fundamentally alter the premium paper's surface texture by using an aqueous coating. We designed for matte text as would be expected from the matte stock, for unimpeded (glare-free) readability, while maintaining the pleasant more natural tactility of the premium stock without an added coating from the printer. The brief was: let the paper do the work.

    Two things broke that plan, independently:
    • Their press used UV LED ink and curing, with Toyo ink exclusively, which renders ink glossy regardless of formulation — not disclosed upfront, and not something a publisher planning around standard offset assumptions would know to ask about. Once that surfaced, we chased matte UV ink directly with the ink manufacturer; confirmed discontinued, no path back.
    • Separately, both stocks — cross-tested — come back from this printer with their matte, tactile surface altered from mill samples, even in unprinted margins. Not ink-related. Something in their process is changing the paper itself. I've asked the printer, which states that no additional coating, aqueous or otherwise, was employed. They seem utterly unfamiliar with the change to the stock. I've asked the Arctic mill as well, which did not respond, but given the same transformation from pleasant largely matte finish and tactile surface changed on both stocks once tested at the printer (as compared to the direct-from-the-mill A4 samples), it's unlikely that it's a mill-side issue.
    The fallback for the gloss problem of the ink and UV LED process became spot matte OPV varnish on letterforms, which worked for body text — but a wrinkle: proof testing (images run deliberately without our standard sepia retouch) showed the matte varnish itself adds a slight yellow tint to white/BW images, beyond what they should have (a 3% sepia added in the retouching becomes compounded by the varnish-added slight yellow tint). Therefore, if we cannot determine what's changing the surface quality of the supposedly bare stock at the printer, which we intended to keep natural for its premium touch/feel, then there's no longer a need to use the complex and costlier OPV varnish on letterforms only to attain matte text, and we can compromise on the tactility and just flood coat with matte varnish. But the 170 BW images need to have their subtle sepia taken down as the flood coat adds that hint of yellowing (and it may grow over time).

    On top of that, color: a Pantone grey spec for annotation text has produced inconsistent results across proofs from the same printer — a 50/50 mix, then a pure shade, printing darker than expected with no clear explanation. The printer refused drawdowns. For fine 8.4 pt annotation text where the Pantone grey is used (and printed as a solid spot, not halftoned, for sharpness), it is challenging to evaluate from a color swatch.

    So the live open questions are (1) what in the printer's process alters the paper surface (they do not seem to know), and (2) whether full-sheet flood coat is worth pursuing now as the only option left to render the text glare-free, as it would have been if the job had been executed with traditional, not LED UV process, on these largely matte stocks.
     
    There's issues with the process of varnish applications. You want matte varnish overprint on your entire sheet except your pictures, whether it be 4 colour quads or halftones, or your sepia tone. No matte varnish gets applied to pictures, that's what you want glossy. I've done the strikethrough application on board stock, but not a paper stock. It is a great application and you will not see the same yellowing you experience with only varnish.
    I don't know what that specific stock is like, but remember, the printing process uses water and paper gets squeezed in the process. These could be a cause of the issue you're seeing.
    The samples you've received from the shop regarding your PMS, are they printed samples? I don't agree with blending two inks. You're creating a different colour. Who knows how those inks were mixed? We're they used inks? Some separation could have occurred. If you want a colour between Pantone colours, you should insist on a mix formula from the ink provider, you are creating a colour. Approve a colour swatch and insist the ink company supplies that ink with swatches.
     
  • I don't know what that specific stock is like, but remember, the printing process uses water and paper gets squeezed in the process. These could be a cause of the issue you're seeing.
    It does at least seem quite plausible that this is the cause of what I'm seeing and experiencing when touching the altered stock. The difference is readily perceptible. It takes an extraordinarily pleasant to handle stock like Magno Matt and Arctic Volume, stocks with a very premium feel as mill samples or book block dummies, and renders them more average, more standard, and seemingly more robust and resilient when their tactile delicate and initially more matte surface was the point, the attraction. Are printers responsible for this dramatic change; is it more severe owing to certain modifiable factors from the printer? Is it at all worse under UV LED printing or with additional passes, such as for a spot?

    The admonition against mixing is easy to see as justified. The samples we had based things off of were standard pantone swatches. You can't, however, reliably fathom how these colors will look in fine 8.4pt text from a large, solid swatch. Hence the request for simple thin lines of drawdowns from the printer to see an approximation. The printer states they do not provide drawdowns, ever.

    The last wet proof used matte varnish on letterforms with no matte varnish on images (images were blocked out from the matte varnish, except for one which was tested without it, and a few that had half the image matte varnished for comparison), and no varnish applied anywhere else, not even between the text lines. We were trying to preserve the stock's virgin areas, yet it is so altered by the process, possibly the water and squeezing.
     
    I'm sorry to hear that the company began their process with you using UV. It's thrown you some curve balls.
     
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