Actually Kris, the practice of dropping your waters down a bunch when you start up in the morning, and then looking for an even scum line on the plates gripper is IMO the "best way" When it comes to ink film thickness here are a few things ive learned over time... Even the most successful and widely sought out ink brands at times have quality control issues that arise. They are no different than any other manufacturing business. One of the issues that arises, as you might well imagine, is inaccuracies when measuring. What do you suppose would happen if an ink mixer were to measure wrong and add 20% more than the required amount of magenta pigment to its ink? You would have an ink that would still be able to arrive at your desired density measurements, but would do so with a 20% thinner ink film. An ink with a 20% thinner ink film would perform differently on press at the very same ink density. Now suppose that your running a long run and everything is going fine running your go to ink set. After 20,000 impressions you wind up opening a can of magenta ink, from the same series, from the very same manufacturer. The only difference is that this can of magenta ink is from a different lot number where the ink mixer didn't measure correctly and added that 20% more pigment. Now your still feeding the same amount of ink from the ink fountain, into the inker, but the just added ink is 20% stronger. Now the pressman sees a jump in the magenta ink density, and either manually reacts by dropping the magenta ink sweep, or even allows the presses closed loop inking to do its thing. After running a couple hundred sheets and getting back to proper density things seem to be "under control." The press continues on its run for awhile at proper density until things start to go wrong. The thinner ink film your now running to arrive at the desired density, will begin to catch up, with the potential for numerous problems. The desired density will become harder to keep consistent as fountain solution begins to wreak instabilities in your inks emulsion. Hickeys will start to show up because you now have a thinner ink film on the rollers, to keep them in check. As a result of the thinner ink film you might begin to encounter trapping and dot gain changes, because we all know that as ink film gets thinner, ink tack increases. As ink tack increases dot gain decreases. That very same 1.40 magenta densitometer reading that your company worked so hard at achieving as your coated stock "standard", begins to not work so well, as a result of everything I mentioned above.
There is no current technology that I know of that in addition to either density control or spectrometer control that accounts for variations of ink film thickness as the press runs. This is why when I was running presses I never missed on an opportunity to give a visual inspection to the number 4 ink form roller every time I opened a units safety gate . Between the visual inspection for ink film thickness, and inspection of the plates scum line every single time you stop the press and go into a unit, a much higher level of awareness is created. This visual inspection does not come with an assigned number, but in time a seasoned pressman begins to know what the proper ink film looks like on the rollers. This practice becomes second nature and should only require a quick glance. What I described regarding the magenta ink applies to all inks, as well as PMS and ink unit applied varnishes. It applies to thicker ink films as well as thinner ink films with only the problems from thicker ink films being different. My suggestion would be that if your press crews have yet to master this visual inspection, that they should be taught to. You can purchase an ink film thickness gauge to do just this. Its also known as a Peto gauge. Im hesitant to list the best numbers to shoot for just as Im hesitant to list the "best" ink densities. The addition of a strict adherence to ink film thickness as well as ink density, will give the best results.