ink problems ryobi 3304H with PCS-F

So we recently purchased a used Ryobi 3304H with PCS-F. Several of you have helped with other problems. I feel like I am on the verge of making this a great press for our shop after much cleaning and adjusting. I am still struggling with a few things I hope some one can give me some insight on. I will list them in order of importance.
1. Ink leaks under the magnetic pads on the ink knife. Replacement blades are near $600 each, will do that as a last resort. I have tried replacing the magnetic pad with magnetic sign material. Apparently the magnetic attraction is not strong enough to keep the ink out. I have found online a magnetic roll that says the strength is 37.5 pound per linear foot, most do not mention their strength. Is that strong enough?
2. Struggling to get ink adjusted properly to the job. I have run single color and 2 color presses over 30 years, they all had the old fashioned screws and ink knife. Are there any suggestions on how to at least come close to my target densities when starting a job? I know software was originally available for Mac computers only, but even if I bought one, I know there would not be a 3.5 floppy drive. Is there software available for windows PCs? Even if it told me the ink key settings, I could input them manually into the PCS-F.
3. Also struggling with the fourth unit, running yellow ink. This job is heavy on the yellow, but it is filling in in certain spots. I have double a triple checked roller settings, will probably do it one more time to be sure. Could it just be the ink? I know from the past some inks are just harder to run, reflex blue, for example.
I know this is long, but I would really like to get this machine up and running. Thank you in advance for any help.

 

ill be willing to bet if you searched around enough you could find a floppy drive that interfaces via USB or firewire. As to the issue with the yellow ink I would suggest you try a different manufacturers ink as it sounds like your current yellow may be pigmented a little weak.

 

Thanks for the input. Actually I seem to have solved the yellow ink problem with fountain chemistry, running about 15% alcohol. I am, however, still struggling with the water rollers. Others have posted that Crestline or Kompacs are the answer, but our budget does not alow for that at the present time. We recently replaced all the rubber rollers in the press and still struggled particularly with drips on the first unit. Out of desperation I put the old ones back on that unit and drip went away. Now I will have to see what the roller company will do for me.

 

Crestlines or Kompacs are a huge waste on this machine. The original water system with the press is really good if you're willing to take time to maintain and learn it. When replacing the rubber water rollers go with OEM rollers, much more expensive but this will make a HUGE difference, Ink rollers are not so critical.

 

what do you mean by water drips? From the water pan?

 

The addition of that much alcohol is a band aid fix, that will over the long haul will wind up costing you money. That much alcohol will wind up forcing you to run more ink to arrive at the same solid densities. If your running a single circulator tank to feed fountain solution to all units, then your increased ink usage will be multiplied by as many units as is on your press. Then there is the cost of the alcohol in them high concentrations. You will also get less life out of your rubber rollers as the alcohol will have the effect of drying your rollers out prematurely.
You should reconsider your band aid fix and SOLVE your problem where it begins. Im not certain that a more strongly pigmented yellow ink will solve your problem as im not there to see the entire picture, but I think it would be a good place to start. If your company can not afford to hire a full time person with the required skills to figure this stuff out then I would suggest you at least bring on a pressroom consultant for a few weeks to help.

 

Thanks again for everybody's input. I have begun to get a handle on it. As far as the water drips, I think I have traced them all done. It is easy to overload the trays to begin with, then I also found out that if I am letting too much water through the system by not allowing enough roller pressure, it will drip. Yes, I have read the manual, as well as others hints on setting the rollers, but with so many things I have learned over the years, the manual is often only a starting point. Also, after putting all new rollers (not oem) I could not get one unit to stop dripping no matter what. Out of desperation, I put the old set on, reset the pressures, and all was well.
One other bit of input would be appreciated. I have gotten conflicting answers as to the importance of the chiller operating. Ours does not. Water gets up to 85 degrees. I tried putting blocks of ice in containers to cool it down to see if it made any difference, but the last time I printed it was only one color. One way or another, we will try to get it fixed.

 

Chilling the fountain solution is critical to the Ryobimatic dampening system. Should be @ 51degrees F. This in turn will affect the conductivity as well. High quality process inks and proper chiller function will give great results in quality.

 

chilled fountain solution is a MUST!!!

 

Thanks for your input. Actually, I have made a lot of progress with this press. Of all the problems I have had, the most frustrating has been the drips. Someone suggested removing the oscillating roller from the water form roller. The theory being that it was trapping excess water from returning to the system. I tried it and it worked, thank God for that. Thanks for everybody´s input.

 

I am very interested to learn all I can about this water system as we just bought a 3304H. I am glad to hear someone say it is good.

 

It has been a long time since I first posted my problems with this press. After reading everyone's post, I have to say they are right on, but there is one embarrassing thing I have to admit was one of my biggest problems. On the water knobs the "+" sign does not mean more water, it means more pressure, and thus less water, and the opposite for the "-". I don't remember how long I struggled with this, but maybe someone new to the system has had the same problem. If you have good rollers, and set them up according the instructions in the owners manual, it will work fine.

 

For future reference.... Had you verified your settings with some strips of mylar, or by working with ink stripes you would have known immediately

 

Its a good system. Use good chemicals (distilled water, fountain concentrate, alcohol substitute). Use best water rollers you can. The metering roller is the most critical a good water form roller will go a long way too. Hows things in the UK? My wife is from London and we lived there for three years in the early 2000's. I never made it down that way but my wife spent many vacations in Newquay with family.

 

Hmm, Hopefully I understand the process. It seems to me that you get the metering roller where it is being flooded with fountain solution. Then you tighten the roller - turn in the "+" until it just stops flooding. Then you turn in"+" another 10 clicks. Is that right?
I am using silvermaster digiplates and it is printing pretty good. It is just that as the run progresses I get ink on the leading edge mostly on the outer edges. I have to keep increasing the water speed dial. I am using Nikken Extreme for a fountain solution with a little bit of Stop itz (all supposed to be good, quite expensive).
Another question I have is when you are printing and you stop the paper feeding should all the rollers come up off the plate? I am used to running the old 3302M and you can just stop the paper feeding and keep your rollers on the plate.
seanryder-I grew up in London until I was 15 in a place called Earls Court. Then I moved to the States. I lived in Devon most of the last 27 years but just happen to be in the states right now. Devon is really beautiful, we are on the south side, quite similar to Newquay.

 

The idea thats outlined in the press manufacturers operators manual should only be considered as a "starting point" for best practices. The 10 clicks that you mention might be the optimum setting when the press and rollers are brand new. Rollers wear out and harden. Roller cups and hangers over time wear out. The mechanics of the press are in a constant state of slow change. For a pressman to not recognize this constant change of conditions, and to try to assign a hard and fast rule (10 clicks) cuts the pressman off from developing higher reasoning practices. Adaptability to ALL of these ever changing conditions is what separates the button pushers from the true pressman.

 

great! Like you said, the manual is a starting point. That is why I like to ask these questions on the forum so I can learn to be a "true pressman". Who wants to be a button pusher all their life? But its a starting point.
So how would you advise setting the metering roller?

 

Ten clicks on the metering roller is a good place to start when rollers are new. I'm not the operator of our 3304HA anymore. I did run it since it was new and for the first 16 years. I've since moved to sheet fed digital and roll labels but still frequently help the current operator with problems and adjustments. The rollers on ours are about a year old now and when I "tweak" them I go 6 clicks on the metering roller to fountain roller. In my opinion the more critical settings are the metering to the metal oscillating roller. The bead on it is normally about 2mm. so as rollers shrink it goes off setting quickly so I find every couple of months or so we need to click down a couple of clicks tighter on that setting. Also the pressure between the metal oscillating roller and the water form roller gets turned anti clockwise a bit at roughly the same rate, or as needed. Frequency is going to really depend on environment. We are in south louisiana which isn't too bad. But when a super cold front comes through I've see press adjustments go crazy.

 

seanryder-I grew up in London until I was 15 in a place called Earls Court. Then I moved to the States. I lived in Devon most of the last 27 years but just happen to be in the states right now. Devon is really beautiful, we are on the south side, quite similar to Newquay.[/QUOTE]

We lived in Bounds Green for three years but I worked just off Carnaby Street and just outside St. James palace. I'd really love to see your part of England. We are hoping to make it down there at some point. If my wife had her way we'd live in Cornwall and I don't think I'd complain much. lol Hows the job market there? Printings dying and changing out here for sure.

 

Thank you all so much!
What do you think of what I said about when I hit the stop feed button and all the ink and water forms lift, is that normal? Other presses I have run would keep the rollers on there, just stop feeding the ink. This way the plate gets dry and you have to go through the whole "wetting the plate" procedure again.