GTOZP Inching / starting problem

My inching forward is missing when I depress the button and seems to be worsening, as well sometimes when I depress the run button the slow down wheels will start but not the press. I'll stop and inch it in reverse then forward then press start and the press will run. I'm getting the same behaviour from the delivery panel or feeder panel switches so I don't think it's the switch. Has anyone ever experienced this type of hiccup?

 

Couple of likely issues,
1. Brake is worn, though you hear it engaging, it's not moving far enough to make the switch to tell press brake is off, it's the switch mounted on the brake....if this were the case, you'd probably be experiencing the same thing in reverse also.
2. Brake contactor for forward motion worn. Not putting 24 volts to brake consistently.
3. Forward motion relay worn.
Oh, #4, forward motor contactor for motor (C1...C2?) bad, look for heavy carbon build-up below the mentioned contractors/relays, sure sign of failure. Good Luck, Steve

 

Just like junker said,

first, check if d6 is engaging
> if it is engaging, check if there is 24 volt DC on the blue wires on the screw terminals above and below d6 whenever you press forward push-button.
>if there is 24volts dc present, you can hear the brake assembly making sound and the brake manual handle/lever is moving. If not, the d6 contactor/relay is defective. you need to replace d6.
>but if there is sound coming from brake assembly, check the c2 or forward main motor contactor
> check if there is 3 phase voltage on the black wires on the screw terminal below c2 ....there should be a full voltage reading in 3 phase whether your power supply is 220v/380vor440v..> if not, replace c2.

 

I would put my money on the relay, solid state modern relay work much better that the old magnet ones.

FSA

 

True,FSA, but considering an electrically inexperienced operator/shop owner trying to figure out the installation-conversion to solid state versus a plug and play relay/contactor configuration, which SHOULD be good for another 15 to 20 years, no brainer..

 

@Heidelberglen
Hi, I would suggest that you seek the help of qualified electrical technician if you are not knowledgeable with electrical control system.

 

It is more looking like a relay / contactor. In the morning it's fine but during the day it acts up. I seen an arc on one relay this morning and some smoke discoloration on the grey plastic that covers the wires. Any tips on where to get these Siemen relays or is this a Heidelberg Part?

 

The contactors/relays can be replaced with any manufacturer, i.e. Klockner-Moeller, Square D, Fuji, IEC, etc... The important things to look for is the proper amount of normally open and normally closed auxiliary contacts needed, whether built into the contactor or an attached auxiliary component along with the proper sizing (amperage rating) and be sure to order the correct coil voltage. If you have never sourced replacements before, you should leave this to your local electrician, or electrical technician...even your local independent Heidelberg service guy (or call Heidelberg USA, sounds like they could use the work). If you do order it from Heidelberg, you should be able to be assured it will be a direct replacement, and from experience, they really don't upcharge all that much on locally procurable electrical components. To directly answer your question, you'll have to find a local Siemens distributor and give them the numbers off the ID tag on the side of the contactor. This would typically require your to remove the contactor because the spacing of the components is such that you may not be able to read the tag. If you do remove, be damn sure you mark all wires, so they go back in the same place!!!! TURN OFF POWER BEFORE YOU TOUCH ANYTHING