528 Roller settings

HI there all,
I have moved to WA to an older press from a very new one in UK and the roller setting are quite different to what iv'e been used to.
Does anyone have or know where i can get hold of some printed instruction for setting the rollers/dampers on a late eighties 528?
I have the manual but there isn't much info on setting rollers.
any instruction will be very helpful, and get a better print off this little bus.

 

I have an old manual for a 2-28 might be helpful...?
John
206-856-4389

 

Thanks John,does it have a roller settings page? If so could you email it?

 

It would be easier to Fax the pages to you, but I suppose either one could be possible.

 

I don't have accesss to a fax but email would be great!

 

Roller Settings

Here is a PDF of it. Hope it helps.

 

Thanks John, exactly what i need. Much appreciated.....

 

That brings back memories, the drawing on page 7-3-4 is mine because it wasn't included originally!

YG

 

Sorry to be a pain but do you also have damper settings, having some start-up probs where one unit almost runs a solid before it clears, surge is on high setting too. Getting away with it, just a waste running 30+ sheets to come good.
So be awsome to get some more info.
Thanks..

 

Hi... I don't know about the older Komori's, but if you don't have any settings to go by at this point ... the 2000 Lithrone 628 that I run might be similar. It is... meter roller / distributor @ 4mm.. distributor / water form @ 5mm.. water form / plate @ 4mm... This is by memory, but it should get you in the ballpark to stop that dry up at start of run. I just went through the K unit the other night, and it is still sort of fresh in the memory. Hope this helps if you don't get any other info for your particular press.

 

Drbevan,
I am on a short vacation right now and will be back to work in a few days. I will get you copies of the setting then. Portlandjem is correct on the settings.
Just remember to set the form to chrome first , always make sure the form falls into the plate gap so you do not get a false reading. I also remember that on those models everyone removed the gear on to form.

 

Thanks again John. Slowly getting this press printing well.

 

Thanks portlandjem.

 

Drbevan,

Here you go.

John

 

Thanks again John, this is superb.

Dave.

 

You are more than welcome. I hope you found some roller settings out of whack, now that John A. has sent you the specs.

 

Yep i did portlandjem and got start-up to a dozen sheets or so. Thanks for the help guys.

 

John,
i noticed the gears or all on this machine, what is the advantage of removing them?
And any more tips gratefully received.

Dave.

 

Dave,
I'm sorry but I don't remember why we removed the gears. I was simply told that the press will have less problems. We purchased two Komoris in the early 90's one used and one new, both installers removed the gears. I called both installers today, neither one of them remembers why and neither one of them works for Komori any more. Maybe try it on one or two units to see if it is any bettor. I do remember the gear was there to drive the "x" rider roller not to drive the form. The rider roller on my machines did not oscillate so it made it virtually useless. I also remember that this machine had a bump line with certain colors and certain screens at about 9and 1/4'" back from lead edge. The way to help this was to set the form to vibrator at 5mm instead of 4mm like the book says. Another phenomenon with this machine is a moray patern on certain screens . Komori allway claimed that you need to talk to your ink provider, it is too week or too strong. Wrong it is another machanical failure on Komoris part. The way to help aleviate this problem is the have your "g" rollers ground one rough one smoth. So says Komori....many years later.
Hope this may help.
John

 

In my opinion if you have an oscillating rider it is best to leave the gears on. If you don't then take them off because the plate damper has a 5 or 6 to 1 ratio in circumference to the plate cylinder and with gears on the job repeats in the same place on the damper 5 or 6 times, e.g. colour bars, giving problems with repeating. Taking the gears off allows some slip so the repeat isn't exact. If you have the oscillating rider roller then this distributes the repeating ink so you can retain the gears which is better for minimising water streaks.
The rough surface rollers (you could have up to 3 per unit) were introduced in the era of low ink film weight, superstrong high milege inks, mainly in Europe. The idea was that the rough suface gave more suface area to carry more ink in the unit improving ink/water balance. The pattern you describe is caused by too low an ink film weight in the ink train being disturbed by the change in direction of the oscillation.

YG