Types of ink/best ink

Has anyone noticed that Toyo ink performs best over any other inks? We tried it and had great success. Anyone have any other suggestions before we commit?

 

Do anyone know if the Toyo ink is available in South-Africa and what the best fountain is to use with it?

 

Which type of Toyo ink are you referring to and what inks have you compared it too ?

 

We are using Toyo "24/7" - we've tried handchy, and worse was "GiS". Toyo is the only ink that doesn't "pick" when backing up a job. We are using Heidelberg MO equipment

 

To make the assumption that Toyo is the best by only comparing it with a couple inks, your only hindering yourself. I have tested over 20 different inks for a certain application, and found that although Toyo is a great ink, but didn't quite meet the particulars of our use. That being said, you may find others that work better than the Toyo for your need, just call around and get samples!

Tim

 

Their waterless process was one of the best I've ever used (been over a decade though). The conventional Tsp 400 series is a good HD oxidizing ink but like all of them it can lead to problems without regular washups. I used Tsp 300 a little and I think it dried even faster. Sun's Triumph series stays open better in the press but still dries like a rock. I have never tried any of Toyo's UV products.

Somebody should put together a list of all the inks there are and their attributes. It seems like every ink company has 20+ different products.

 

How have you come to the conclusion that that particular Toyo ink set is better then any other ink set, when you have only put it up against a few other ink sets.
To test ink sets correctly, you should also be backing the ink up with the correct fountain solution that has been recomended to be used with the ink.

 

Ok, well how about this - from everyones experience, what ink performs the best and doesn't pick? I work in a small shop, and we don't have time to test out a bunch of inks and fountian solutions. Any help would be appreciated. Toyo has worked the best for us so far

 

6colorchuck,
I'm not for one moment, saying the Toyo ink isn't a quality set.
Every printer will have a different take on what qualities an ink set should offer and how well it should perform.
To me a quality ink set is one that is:
Stable when used alcohol free
wide operating window
Duct fresh
zero petroleum solvents
less than 4% voc
high gloss / scuff resistant
Sharp dot
high trap levels
Can be used on all substrates
High mileage

Also take into concideration, one ink set may be well suited to large perfecting presses, but not so suited to a smaller machine.

 

Toyo ink is also the Heidelberg Saphira ink re badged.

 

Best is a relative term and when applied to ink the word has to be adjusted to fit what you need from an ink. Does is work well in your press w/ your fountain solution, print quality needs, not dry in the rollers but dry quickly on your stocks, etc. Only you can answer these questions for your shop......after thorough testing. If you don't take time to test you will be taking time to reprint.

The Toyo products that we use are very good products.

 

We switched to Toyo hyplus process inks a few years ago and love it.

 

Hello everyone.
I also had some problems like this.
after several tests performed, the ink that behaved better in every type of substrate and low / high speeds was Vanson sonafresh.
I have helped.
ps. I do not know if your machine has cooling coils. if it keeps the theoretical value by 27.5%.

 

speaking of inks iam having a drying issue when i run explorer dull stocks i am using superior elite sereies never
had to much problems could stock be issue to acidic or bad coating no problems on coated? thanks . spikeboy

 

i know this is an old tread but still a good topic. Toyo is ok, nothing more, not a good ink on the 8C 102, Sun chemical has had the best results for lack of picking, which is a common problem on these big monsters. Toyo works on the little DI but i prefer Heidleberg waterless ink for its stability. To each his own if you can lay down a mean solid, it dries, and goes through bindery and they don't come back at you, well then you have a winner!

FSA

 

This generally does not happen. Post press is always complaining print.

 

Green, that is a fine list of ink attributes, except for the 'duct fresh' idea-spikeboy is having trouble drying ink on dull stock (and I'll bet on silks and mattes and uncoateds too). Duct-fresh inks have dryer retarder (sta-open) in them, sometimes as much as 2-4%. Why would any sensible printer put dryer retarder in his ink? Even as little as .25% (one fourth of 1%) sta open more than doubles drying time on ANY stock. If your ink does not skin in the can in less than 24 hours, you are doing yourself and your company a disservice with marking, picking, gas ghosting and hours of dry time.

 

agreed that any stay open ink is going to take significantly longer to dry, and create problems in post press, and even post delivery. However..... if your laying aqueous coating as a SOP as many companies do, then there would be the added benefit of not having to clean your ink fountains every night, and less ink waste as you don't have to skin the cans before loading up fountains.

 

Righto-coating and extended dryer allows for sta-opens.

 

K+e novavit supreme bio is really supreme to others in my opinion