TOYO Inks

After a brief 2 day stint trying out hartmann (sun chemical) ink, im back on the toyo. It was *****, noticable difference when i put the toyo back on the press.
Im sticking with it now for good.
 
  • Didn't stay open long enough, emulsification on the black, not drying fast enough. hard to get the colour up in the mornings.
    If it aint broke dont try and fix it.
    No problems when i started back on toyo. Im not moving from it now.
    Hartmann is smellier too.
     
    We switched from Toyo a few years ago to Flint Ink. A little less money. AFter just a few weeks we went back to Toyo. It works for us.
     
    I can't fault this ink (together with 2in1 fount) it represents the best combo we've ever run.

    There I said it again :D
     
    Is this ink, Toyo hyplus 100 process series zero VOC ?

    Richard, have you had any drama's with the 2in1 clogging up the fount chiller/recirculation tank? and the IPA feeder/reader.

    I stopped in to my old workplace to have a chat and they have stopped running it due to this problem, (this was something that we we're warned about by the shino tech and other suppliers when we first started using it)

    I think it was chrystalised deposits building up and causing problems.
     
    Hi Luke

    we run TOYO Hy Unity Series...heres an infolink

    TOYO

    Re: 2in1...no blockages or any visible crystallisation, but thanks for the heads up. Did this company have the crystals analysed so they could determine the cause?
     
    blankets and rollers.

    Dip your finger into the 1st unit water pan on a press that's been running for a week or so without a water system cleandown and see the silty build up. The more of it there is the more calcium has been dissolved from the paper stock.

    *The water supply itself can carry minerals in suspension, the concentration of which is dependent on external factors such as the depth of water in the reservoirs and even the pipeline that brings the supply to the pressroom.[/QUOTE]

    i'm so aggree with that fact richrd.
     
    Why is it always the magenta? I've been told that it's formulated with a considerable amount of calcium. Why does it attack copper rollers before plastic or ceramic. The Man Rolands and Millers wouldn't have to use roller paste or scrub the rollers for months. And the magenta would attack the Komori's copper like crazy. Just a thought for the pro's on here!
     
    I totally agree with that statement Richard. The 1st unit pan will always have the most silty buildup of any other pans. So, once again, I ask myself, why the magenta is affected first? It's at least 3-4 units down the line. We ran Van-Son for a year or two and never had to paste the magenta unit on the weekends. Now given, the Van-Son had a weak pigment load but I never stripped out with their inks. Seems like the stronger, more potent, more rich the ink, the more stripping problems occur. I do agree that you will see more paper trash and deposits in the first pan than others but why is it the magenta affected first? I guess no one on this board has a REAL answer to this problem. You know how to get around it Richard as do I, but why is it the magenta and why again is it presses with copper oscillators?
     
    Hi Luke

    we run TOYO Hy Unity Series...heres an infolink

    TOYO

    Re: 2in1...no blockages or any visible crystallisation, but thanks for the heads up. Did this company have the crystals analysed so they could determine the cause?

    As fair as I'm aware, they simply stopped using it and switched back to the original fount, (The contract they have with the company that supplied the press, the're ment to use the recomended chemicals, if there is a problem with such chemicals the company will work with you to resolve the problem no extra charge, But if you have issues with alternate chemistry and it causes press issues they will be liable for tech costs,) "very rough explanation on the aggreement"

    Out of interest how often do you dump and clean out your fountain tanks?
     
    The tanks get cleaned out once a month, depends really on time available.

    As for the dump, depends if i had a Vindaloo or a Madras, but usually around 7.00am most mornings, thanks for asking! :D :D
     
    Last edited:
    Yes , run well... the medium tack process set is good overall set for most work, I was an employee for Toyo Ink America and have also run their product.....
     
    To Rolandman, I've worked on an 8 color 700 series. I'd rather have a Komori! Lots of poor designing in my opinion on the Rolands. Electronic nightmares.
     
    so toyo have supposedly have had two price hikes this year and another due in january, anyone confirm this. as far as i know my supplier has absorbed the last two but not the third.
     
    No price rises here - but then I did have a 12 month price stability clause when we took the inks on board.

    But tell me have you noticed any changes in ink characteristics since say September?
     
    We've been running Toyo brand ink for years in our Komori, both process and pms and have always had good success. We have not had a problem with calcium buildup or streaking either with any units.
     
  • Trialing Toyo hyplus 100 at the moment. having issues with magenta stipping on some parts of the rollers. Do a calcium flush and it goes away, but after 5 -6 hours of running it is back, though in a different spot.. do a calcium flush, problem goes away.. it shows up on the print by usually in a inch to 3 inch wide area that looks below density. and it doesnt matter how much you open up the ink duct in that spot density stays low.. and when you look at the bridging roller is looks lightly stripped of ink.. Have checked roller settings, PH and conductivity.
    I have never ever had this issue with other brands of ink and always do a calcium flush once a week/fortnight depending on work load.

    Could it be a fount / ink incompatability ?? But why just the magenta..
     
    Hi Luke

    The fact that you have to de-calcify your rollers so often may be an indicator that your incoming water supply is carrying high amounts of calcium and perhaps other minerals.

    The magenta in particular, we have found, is very highly pigmented compared to other manufacturer's. On repeat jobs where we previously used Flint inks we, more often than not, have to drop the ink feed down around 10 - 15%.

    It may be that you're carrying way too much magenta and upping the water feed to prevent catchup, where in fact all you're doing is emulsifying the ink leading to stripping.

    A quick test for emulsification - when running a job that shows this issue, stop the feeder, then restart the run...do you get a huge surge of magenta? If so then you're running too much damp. Have you tried being brutal in lowering the ink and water feeds on that unit?
     
    Forum posts represent the experience, opinion, and view of individual users. The Color Printing Forum does not necessarily endorse nor share the view of each individual post. When making any potentially dangerous or financial decision, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Your circumstances or experience may be different.
    Back
    Top