Ryobi 3302- Large coverage problems

[Deadspread4]

I run a Ryobi 3302 M. When I run smaller jobs like business cards, envelopes, or even 8.5 by 11 I have no problem controling ink coverage, except in heavy coverage cases. As soon as I move to larger jobs I start to get image blocking, and text filling in on my sides. After this it is very hard to keep the job dark enough, while also avoiding the blocking and filling.This mainly happens on the operator side, most severely on the gripper end. Alot of times it starts to manifest itself as a dark triangle appearing in the same corner. My boss thinks I need to work on my ink/water balance better, but im not so sure. I know that my ink keys won't cut the ink flow completely off on the sides, the non operator side of the 2nd units fountain leaks ink little, I can't keep a consistant amount of water on my rollers, and I am skeptical that my ink ductor roller may by warped. When I wash up My ductor roller never come completely clean in the middle and has to be hand cleaned. Im skeptical that this means its not hitting the other rollers properly. Im not sure if any or all of these could be causing my problems, or if I do in deed need to work or my ink/water balance. I was also wondering if anyone else that is running this press could explain how the ink their press up for a run, im an not sure if I am putting the correct amount of ink on my water rollers. All advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Deadspread4]

I actually learned today after pulling apart one head, that I have a couple of potentially warped or swollen form rollers, so this might contribute to my continued issues. I also inspected other main train rollers to find slight gauges or scrapes. I don't know if any of this can be directly linked to my image problems, but I am suspect.

 

[FFR428]

What kind of water system on that press? Molletons, Kompac, Crestline or? What kind of plates, ink and fountian solution are you using? While things can relate to bad rollers there are sometimes balance and chemistry issues that compound it. And maybe some roller pressures a little whacked out too. It normal after time to see the form roller stripe a little swollen and heavy on the ends. Have you check the hard rollers for glaze buildup?

 

[Deadspread4]

I am running a Crestline water system with polyester plates, mostly Toyo Ink, and im not sure the brand of my fountain solution but I use 2 oz. per 32oz of water, it is the generic pink alcohol fountain solution. I am not familiar with what glaze build-up is but I recently pull apart one of the heads and hand cleaned everything, so if that was an issue it most liking got addressed in this cleaning.

 

[FFR428]

Glaze is a calcium buildup that collects on the hard rollers and will have a whiteish haze look to it when dry. Putz Pomade is a gritty burnt orange color paste that comes in a tube or can that used to remove it. A small dab of putz on a rag with blanket wash and water then scrub the hard rollers by hand. Then clean with a clean rag w/wash&water. I don't like to run the putz itself in the roller train as the soft rollers abosrb it and it leaves a chalky powder residue on the rollers. So I clean the hard rollers by hand and the soft rollers with a rag, wash and water only. Finish with a nice roller cleaner like Easy Street and washup.

I don't have a lot of experience with the Crestlines. But have run a few over the years on Multi's and Hamadas. The units were pretty beatup from numerous operators as were the machines themselves. But I had the same trouble with outer edge feathering and screens/solids. I'm sure setup right and in good condition they run pretty well. My press has kompacs which are pretty much a no brainer. And I run the digi poly plates too. I use 4oz of the pink fountain solution, 2 oz of mega etch and 24 oz distilled H20. 28 oz total mix for the qt bottle. Some of the older stock ryobi water bottles were half gallon bottles. I would try a little more solution and see what that does. Toyo ink overall is a good ink. Oilbase is the only way to go. I shy away from ink additives (reducers and whatnot) with poly plates.

Sorry I'm not much help on the Crestlines. Hopefully someone can chime in on those for you.

 

[Deadspread4]

Thats cool I appreciate the advise. A couple months ago I started mixing 4 oz. of fountain solution, but I think that was to much alcohol, the plates seemed to dry out a little to much text would start to block out and ink balance was near impossible to control. Did you say you mixed etching solution, with fountain solution and water in your bottle? What is the benefit of running etching solution in the mixture, I wipe my plates down with a cotton pad and etching solution before I mount them on my press, but never heard of running it in the mixture? Also whats the deal with distilled water?

 

[FFR428]

Yes I add 2 oz of plate etch in the solution mix. It helps as a plate wetting agent on startups with the Kompacs as they run on the dry side. I do etch the plates before they go on press too. Alcohol will blind mega plates so I use the etch. Distilled water keeps a ideal PH without fungus and a more consistant balance on small offset. With hard and soft water regions plus the chlorine and others additives to help purify the tap water suppy is inconsistant. I've run almost 30 years without distilled water but the city water at the shop I'm at is just terrible. So distilled was a easy choice after some test printing. Poland Springs delivers monthly or as needed.

 

[5150pressman]

I don't know the Crestline. You might adjust the gap between the damp rollers on the operator side.

 

[Deadspread4]

Ok so about a month ago, we have the press looked at by a technician, and he concluded that all the (rubber) rollers needed to be replaced. After doing that and calibrating everything, the press has run beautifully. This press went from being a nightmare, to a joy to run. Being trained on a Heidelberg QM 46-4 DI, so hopefully I won't have to deal with two color jobs any longer.

 

[graficworx]

Distilled water for fountain solution or in a plate/film processor is the best way to go. As previously mentioned, it has a balanced PH as is about as pure of water as you can get, and it does not have chlorine, flouride, or any other additives that municipal water systems add. There are also very little, if any minerals, dissolved in it, which helps prevent roller buildup. Also many filtration systems use activated carbon to make water taste better. Calcium, found naturally in water, builds up on the rollers bad, and requires more frequent cleaning.