Question about process color job printing?

I'm planning on printing a process color job with a spot PMS color, spot varnish, a bump plate and metallic ink. How many units would a printer need to run this job?

 

So from what I understand, it would be 8 units.

C M Y K spot varnish bump metallic. Is this correct?

 

That would be correct, unless you want to coat it also. Then you will need a coating unit of course.

 

what does bump metallic mean??
i am new to this printing field...tats y im asking these questions..??

 

not fully understanding??? are you looking to do a bump on the 4/c process with a metallic ink? off the top of my head im thinkin that a bump on the 4/c process with any metallic ink will make for a very muddy looking appearance as the opacity of the metallic will obscure the 4/c image. If you lay the metallic first the 4/c will have a really hard time trapping over the metallic. if you lay the metallic over the 4/c the opacity will not allow the 4/c to show through very much. im thinkin your best chance for success if this must be done would be to print the metallic offline first, then after its dry youd need to come back for a second pass to overprint the 4/c. of course that makes it really risky as you will not know what the final piece will look like until its too late to turn back. Id suggest a press proof!!!

 

Is this term 'Bump' merely a colour under another to obtain a better opacity? If so it depends on what colour you wish to 'Bump'


You could get away with a Uv 6 colour and coater option.

 

not sure Im getting this... 4/c process with 2 pms colors ( one being a metallic) and spot varnish? 7 colors? is the bump color the pms and why is there a bump color plate? is your metallic overprinting? it would have to be 1st down....well good luck....

 

bump metalic

What about a foil stock. We do this on Rapida 205. 12 point gold foil and silver foil. I have also heard of "rainbow printing" where there are deviders in the fountains so you can print more than one color in a fountain. This is if you do not have to have one of your colors all the way across the sheet. You need to stop the oscelation of your rollers unless the image is far enough away not to get mixed in the rollers.

 

What I understand, bumping or to bump is to run the sheets under impression to remove or clean up the sheets before the first color goes down

or

Too keep a unit open after a metallic so the colors that overprint maintain a good enough lift and dont look to "Fuzzy" ontop of the metallic.

Check out the atrwork and see if the metallic is reversed out to allow the rest of the colors to print onto the paper only.
So......
1st - Metallic,
2nd - open / bump (no plate needed)
3rd to 6th - process colors
7th - Required Pantone Spot color
8th - Spot varnish

If you can run the metallic last, but before your varnish, that would be great for a better finish.

 

Normally when we run a "bump plate" it refers to an additional solid or heavy screened plate with the same image the heavy ink areas in the art in order to get more ink on the sheet for increased density or vibrancy. This is helpful for PMS colors or for heavy solid colors. This also helps if the stock has a lot of trash in it to cover hickies.

By your description, I count 4 units for 4 / cp, 1 unit for PMS, 1 unit for additional PMS bump, 1 unit for spot varnish, and 1 unit for metallic ink for a total of 8 units needed.

I would prefer to run the metallic ink last but it is normally laid down first. Ensure that the traps are adequate to keep crisp borders. Metallic inks should print in knocked out areas and not overprinted.

Overprinting metallic inks with coating or varnish will diminish the metallic effects and can cause them to change color.

 

I was always under the "impression" that "bump" means to "double hit" some color.

aka "Double Bump"

others here referring to a bump are talking about "Dusting the sheets" is to clean them for a second pass or PRE cleaning/for smoother printing on the following units

 

Metallics can go down first as long as they're designed to do so...eg MetalFX (now defunct but inks can still be sourced I think from Wolstenholme) and Liquid Foil (pretty much the same thing but rebadged for the US market). With these metallics you can overprint CMYK to achieve various hues depending whether you use silver or gold. Tricky to proof using conventional inkjet proofers. Results can be variable so wet proofing would be the way to go.