Polar EMC 137 knife lowering bolt replacement

Discussion in 'Cutters and Trimmers' started by oharek, Aug 13, 2014.

  1. oharek

    oharek Member

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    :confused:Do I have to remove the clamp to be able to replace the knife lowering bolt. Ours is stripped out. Looks like I can get to the 6 screws holding the backing plate with the hangers with the clamp in but I hesitate. I don't know what I will run into. Looks like it would be real easy to get to everything if I removed clamp but I've never done that either.
    Looking for some advice, hopefully, before I get into it.
     
  2. Coloured paper

    Coloured paper Senior Member

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    Hi Oharek!

    If you talk about the knife lifting device inside the knife carrier, you don't have to take out the clamp.
    Take out the knife! Okay so far the jokes.

    Lower the clamp and switch off the machine. If the machine is in correct conditions the clamp stays down. In this position you can reach a lot of screws and mechanical components.
    Switch the machine back on and use the foot pedal. The clamp will move upward.
    Use the cut buttons and get the knife carrier to its BDC (most lower position). Switch the machine off. In this Situation clamp and knife carrier are lowered. Now you can reach other screws, etc.
    Put the clutch handles into the fly wheel and crank the knife up. Get the clutch handles out, put the covers back on, make sure everything is save and switch the machine back on.
    This is the game a service engineer has to play. Up and down and up and down until all parts are replaced. There is not a lot of space and you fight with the little pins, etc. The second time doing this job would be easier. This is the price you pay. But until than you forgot everything (okay - I would).
    The last information is about the brake. The central shaft (for the Allan key) has on the rear side a cup washer and a flat washer which works like a brake shoe. This area has to be dry and without grease for sure. Otherwise the next knife change becomes a bit too fast.

    In other words a good trained mechanic can do this job. The only problem is safety and safety and safety.
    But there are alternatives. You may ask binderytech.com or Heidelberg for help.

    Good luck
    Coloured paper
     
  3. oharek

    oharek Member

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    Hi.
    Thank you!
    Yes. Before I posted I went through all these steps to see if it could be done that way and you have confirmed it. The information about the brake is very helpful. I was wondering what the allan behind the cup was and now I know. I can see that could be a safety problem if the brake didn't work properly. Thank you again for your reply. I'll let you know how it goes. Now to find and purchase the part. I hope Heidelberg has them in stock.
     
  4. Coloured paper

    Coloured paper Senior Member

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    Regarding the parts I would ask binderytech.com as well.

    Good luck
    Coloured paper
     
  5. oharek

    oharek Member

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    I did send a request to binderytech for availability and pricing. Waiting for a reply.
     
  6. Coloured paper

    Coloured paper Senior Member

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    Then compare to Heidelberg prices

    and have fun

    Coloured paper
     
  7. oharek

    oharek Member

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    coloured paper, got the job done . Everything worked out great just as you described. Took me a while, 4-5 hours maybe, but now that I've done it next time take maybe 2 hours tops. Probably won't be a next time though. Hopefully I will be retired before this new one rounds out.
    Can you advise me on another? I bought a new table assist belt, ours is frayed. Another 'do I have to remove' question. Do I have to remove the center section of the backguage to get to that part of the tape? I don't see any where underneath the table I can get to it.
     
  8. Coloured paper

    Coloured paper Senior Member

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    Hi oharek!

    Congratulations - 4-5 hours is not too bad for the first time.

    Regarding the table slot cover belt.
    I am assuming you do not have the options “swivel backgauge” and/or “tilting backgauge” installed in your machine. If you have this options I would try the first here described possibility. As well If you have the black belt for the option “rear table loading” you need more instructions before you start.
    You have two possibilities. You can either take the backgauge of. Or you just take the middle section of the rakes/racks out. Both jobs have its individual happiness.
    If you just take the middle rake you need the correct tools to do so. And if you lose a screw you have to take the backgauge of anyway. The two screws all the way at the outside are perfect to study how it works. Each screw has washers and a correct working spring. If you think you can handle this screws just get the middle part of. Maybe you need for the assembly a second person. It is hard to get the screws inside and hold the rake for the opposite side just by one person.
    If you like to take the whole backgauge of you just open a little cover and three screws. For this job I would write a little instruction. Because, afterwards you have to adjust the backgauge (parallel, over- and undercut). This is not complicated, but it has to be done correct. In this case I need an email-address.

    When changing the slot cover belt, make sure all rollers are working fine. Which machine type do you have? ED or younger – or Monitor and older?

    Coloured paper
     
  9. oharek

    oharek Member

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    Thanks
    I have a 137EMC monitor. No swivel or tilting options. When looking how the current belt is attached, I thought the middle rake would have to be taken off. I will try to replace by removing the middle rake. I have someone that can help hold things.
    If I have to take the backguage off I have made all those adjustments before so I should be ok if it comes to that.
    Thanks again.
     

  10. Coloured paper

    Coloured paper Senior Member

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    Good luck and let us know how it worked out.

    Coloured paper
     
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