POLAR 76 EM LSO Blindstecker problem

Hello, do anybody knows wiring of LSO blind stecker. V12 on HK is very poor and the machine cuts only when cold., but after some cuts dot is blinking and nothing more happens. We cheked everything on the machine - found nothing bad, exept LSO Blind conector. The machine is without light barier.

 

Hi sir:
1) Please clean very well the light barrier beam, from ANY obstructions!!!

2) test if the voltage in connector CU 4.4 vs CU 4.2 =+24vDC in Tolerance, 0.7% up or down, if there are out of tolerance from the Regulated P.supply, you must measure the electronic board in the control box for:+24Vdc

Let me know, sincerely

 

Our machine is without light barier. In conector SCU4 - is blindconector (small black box). It is intersting what signal must come out from SCU4.6 and SCU4.7 to HK and SCU4.5 to IAR board.

 

Hi sir;

1)Please test the voltage as I did indicated in the terminal connector SCU; 4.4 +4.2 = +24vDC, since his machine has Small black box= small amplifier sealed. And see if there are in Tolerance 0.7% up or down, otherwise, you must go to the Regulated P.Supply +24Vdc, section SCU, to the test jack Red, and put the DMM, and measure, and send me the PIC, with the measure please.

2) If the voltage is o.k see if the Small LED V12 in electronic board HK is ON !, the signal is coming from Amplifier (small box amplifier) SCU 4.7 .

3)Test the signal in SCU 4.5 with Digital Tester Pulse small LED V2 in IAR, must be OFF.

4) See with the Digital tester Pulse if some Pulse is coming from IAR terminal 29C, to CU 4.6.

If NOT , please test the connector, for loose wires, broken, or corroded, or bad contacts, clean very well , or dry or colder solder joint in the IAR, or HK, or Small black bock, or defective !

 

Thank you. With LSO was everything OK.
After pressing Butons, clamp goes down, Safety bolt goes up, but no cut. Digital dot starts blinking and clamp not retuns.
By pressing the buttons i have:
ON IAR card: V3- off. V1, V2, V4,V23, V12, V19 - ON
ON HK card: V14,15,16,17,18 - ON
ON KK card: V1,2,3,4 - ON, V5 - NO (cut)
On the cards i see no damaged components and no electronis specialist can find something bad.
The voltages 5 and 24 V are good.
Have you some ideas.

 

Remove the flywheel cover and clean brass slip rings with some fine wet and dry paper, turning by hand also check condition of carbon brushes, holders and wiring. What is the air gap inside the flywheel ?
Connect a meter and check voltage, I clip up on the two bolts on the back of the brush holders and carefully run without the cover and cut.
if you see the voltage fall away when warm it cold be the clutch centre has gone rusty and as the gearbox shaft warms up the clutch is sticking.
The coil is inside the flywheel so air gap also makes an impact on the amount of power needed to pull the disc from brake to drive
Few other things but I would start there. if your getting a clamp via cutting buttons and not using the foot pedal.

 

Hi sir:

Please test the following:

1) measure 5+Vdc + 24Vdc in tolerance send me Pics., please

2) in HK , please review the V1 green LED ON : +12vDC

3) in KK: V1 green LED +12Vdc
V4 +V5 when activate the cut buttom must be ON, activating the Y27 Solenoid for Clamping + Relais (k21a +k21b) in electronic board KUP !!!!For electromagnetic clutch Y33 is activated by +42Vdc , this must be activated by safety bolt limit switch, BSBEterminal ( scu 9.6 +scu 9.4 =+24Vdc).!!! test it, clean it, the clutch, brush, and retest the small relais k21a +k21b, and if there o.k , or dirty, or faulty, or bad contacts for to pass the +42Vdc to the y33 clutch for Knife.......!!

 

24 V - 24,00 V
5V- 5,12 V
Brushes new, gap is 0,3 mm.
HK 12 V is ON
BSBE and BSBA are OK, (because on HK card is V4 on - by manual pressing of safety bolt V4 goes off and V5 goes ON).

by pressing buttons we have no comand for cut (ON KK card: V1,2,3,4 - ON, V5 - NO (cut)) . No 24 V signal is comming to KUP card to activate K21a+K21b.
Everything outside the cards is tested and changed . I think it can be ON SCU.T1 (it geting 12 v from KK , then transforming in KK card to 24V to actvate K21a.b)

 

3 months ago it begun to stop. The knife was stoping in every position not depending on cam. After turning off for some time 10-15 min. it was making some cuts. I have checked cards - no one was heating. Some times it was working all day, but the next morning after few cutts it stops.... Now it stop finaly. I think is one card has problem inside. But which one i must change ?

 

Hi sir;

In short you must have V1 led green +12 Vdc, otherwise the electronic board KK is faulty, and you must replace it or repair.
In KK the red LED v4+v5, must be lit, indicating the Y27 hydraulic solenoid is activated for Clamp +24Vd, and relais k21a+k21b( coils +24Vdc) and contacts passing +42Vdc for active the Solenoid Y33 for Clutch (Knife),in that way the Paper cutter, will work with the clamp + knife very well, otherwise you will always faulty !

Please be sure, if you have the +12 Vdc in KK, and good TIP, that i can give you, in complete SCU, look for dry+colder joint solder, and Reheating very well, since this machine, has this typical problem. Retest the contacts of relais k21a+k21b, for dirty, or bad contacts, or bend, or fauty....!

Good luck, and let me know.

 

If knife stopping in different places, check cam switch continuity but also along the cable is a silver box Mhs, the erni relays fail.
one of the relays is their to make a single change over cam switch into a double pole change over.

 

We make our own replacement update. Also one advantage relays can be replaced in the future.

 

Bad KK card. Today I have got KK card from another damaged machine but with another number (my - 016262 I have replaced with 016261) and everything is working.

 

Hi sir:
Am Happy that you replace the KK board as I did indicated you before, and now everything is working

Great job.

 

Well done

 

Ok

Am appreciated

Blessings.

 

I have repaired my KK card myself. It was chip CD4555B faulty. (price 0,29 Eur.)

 

Great Buddy