Metallic Ink Saturation (PANTONE 877)

Discussion in 'Ink' started by limozeen13, Dec 16, 2014.

  1. limozeen13

    limozeen13 New Member

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    Hi Everyone,
    I'm a designer working with a vendor I've trusted for a while now. I recently did a job with them that was as follows:
    flat: 10x7 - final: 5x7
    100# cover (uncoated)
    5/1 (4c + PMS 877 [outside] / k [inside])
    blind-emboss\trim\fold

    The final piece looks like a 4c build with no noticeable metallic ink. My rep is telling me that since it was run on uncoated stock that the PMS 877 "is more saturated into the paper." They also said we would have gotten a better result by going with a coated stock (first time they mentioned that -- may or may not have been useful before we went to press).

    I'm just trying to get a sense of how valid that statement is; as I'd never claim to know everything about the pressman's domain.

    Thanks
     
  2. blueslal

    blueslal Member

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    he is telling the truth. metallics only look good on coated stock
     
  3. limozeen13

    limozeen13 New Member

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    blueslal -- thanks for taking the time to reply.
     
  4. blueslal

    blueslal Member

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    not a problem. try to remember that in offset printing ink dries on coated stock by oxidation as the ink sits on top of the coating (usually clay) on uncoated stock in dries 95% by absorbtion and 5% by oxidation
     
  5. turbotom1052

    turbotom1052 Senior Member

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    just compare the look of pms 877 in your coated pantone book to the same 877 in an uncoated pantone book and you will see the difference. I wouldn't fault your printer for assuming that you would know the difference.
     
  6. FFR428

    FFR428 Senior Member

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    AND due to EPA, Fed/State regs and whatnot it's hard to find a good silver ink that really pops these days. Years ago Rexart ink had a brilliant silver that was well just brilliant. Today most if not all slivers are all flat, bland and lame. Which adds to the problem.
     
  7. Taymour

    Taymour Member

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    you can apply coating before metallic to get better results.
     
  8. rking

    rking New Member

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    Depending what the silver image was? You still can get that metallic look if it is a heavy or bigger image. Just run it heavy! BUT, it will need more time to dry. If it is a small image or type, predictable results then. You have to look at it with a loop to ensure that it was indeed 877 and not a build.
     
  9. no.1

    no.1 Member

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    when i was an apprentice on a gto 52 we was taught to put a opaque white under the silver, but i think metallic ink wasn't as good as it is now. but the more ink you put on uncoated board the longer it takes to dry, if you put enough ink on them, they would never dry, and end up on everyones hands that handles them.
     
  10. no.1

    no.1 Member

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    but if my opinion is ever asked, by customer or boss, on best stock to print on for a job like yours, i would recommend coated stock.
     

  11. zhongrunclt

    zhongrunclt New Member

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    What kind of metallic ink you are using? it is used for printing on paper or fabric?
     
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