Komorimatic

Richard if the opportunity arises for you to invest in an aftemarket aqeous coater id look a little further than just the epic/dalgren you mention. Technology in these add on coaters has evolved leaps and bounds from 1986. I ran one of them dalghen coaters after running a dedicated tower coater and have been dissapointed. Ive heard that Tresu makes a retrofit anilox coater that performs almost on par with a tower coater. I know the tresu unit that was oem installed on the press i run know is a joy to use

 

Do you use spray powder? Does it affect your press speed?

 

My bet is "Turbotom" is spot on. Bearers and cylinder journals generate plenty of heat. Side frames can get hot. If running "S" model lithrones use fast 1 or 2 start up speeds. On mine fast 1 is 8000 imph and fast 2 is 12000 imph. Lithrones just don't like to go slow.

Throne
Who makes good use of his n/c thermometer.

 

Ok I don't quite see why there should be a marked temperature difference between opside/driveside. After all there are bearings/journals and sideframes on both sides.

If'd expect the driveside to be warmer if it was mechanical since that is where the drive train is. Oh well maybe its just another komori mystery.

 

Sorry in advance if this sounds stupid.. but Another possible reason could be the way the metering rollers are cleaned at the end of the shift/day. Most people would end up standing on the operating side of the press... which makes it difficult to apply the same amount of pressure evenly on the roller (cleaning it) I know it may be a very small contributor.

 

Vic, don't worry I wrote the book on stupid. We always clean with Varn MRC (metering roller cleaner) and ... trust me...both ends are spotless...otherwise we'd have issues at the start of a shift not later on in the day.

Think I'm gonna get me one of those IR thermometers to see if there is a temp difference side to side.

 

hi richard,
i would look at the temperature of the water and compare one side to the other, it can happen that (especially when you have foam) the water doesnt circulate all the way to the op side.
i have cured this by cutting slots in the water level bung and increasing the flow of the water.
i have seen difference of 7 degrees from one side to the other the drive side is always lower.
best of luck.
kev.

 

RickardK , the last two presses what year are they, how many shifts do they run? Koromi damps are very touchie in my dealing with, when the shop went 24-5 lots little things started to happen, management had to sit all operators and feeders down for a talk to get everyone on the same page, 92' 40" 5 colour mondays the meter was reset every hours for the first shift and then every shift change. Not everyone likes how the other shift runs the machine. Good Luck

 

The first was an L428 1989 vintage with ungeared Komorimatic, our current press is a 2002 L626 with geared formes and copper riders. We run 2 'short' shifts of 6hrs.

 

88 5colour 40" it was maintiance on "that" press, that I rebuilt the pnematic pistons that enguage the whole dampening system, the drive side is closer to where tha air enters the machine, when the seal wears water builds up on the inside very bad. The rebuild kit I found loco at a wholesale store. Komori parts were hunders, loco $35. It was called a quad seal, alot of work to change. I hope for you sake it's not that.

 

Hmmm, that could be...the pressmen have said for a while that if they set the dampeners to std nip width (stripes) they end up too light...as if they 'back off' a little under print conditions.

 

I believe the answer is the circulation of the water in the pan. I have recorded up to a 10 degree (F) difference between OS and GS. I noticed that the pan only drains on the gear side, yet feeds water across the whole length of the "wand". I've tried to mitigate this problem by making sure the last three or four holes on the OS are clear and feeding out plenty of water every time I clean the pans.