Komorimatic dampening

Hello
I want to know about KOMORIMATIC DAMPENING system?
How different between Conventional Dampening and Alcohol System?

Thank

 

Conventional = molleton or similar textile covered rollers - no alcohol required but...not as efficient as alcohol continuos damp systems. Prone to flooding if press is idling with damp switched on. Need extensive cleaning, when going from dark inks to pale inks. Covers need to changed often to work at their best.

Alcohol = bareback rubber rollers, continuously damp the plate returning excess damp back into the pan. Various manufacturers have different takes on this system. ie Rolandmatic, Komorimatic, Alcolor.

I've used Conventional, Hybrid (as conventional but with a 'peach effect' forme dampener), Crabtree Rapid Reponse, Planeta Varidamp, Epic (Dahlgren), Rolandmatic and Komorimatic.

Komorimatic, in my opinion, is the most controllable, least variable, with minimal tracking/ghosting issues, very good with metallic inks.

Easy to set up and in conjunction with Ratio on the PQC, provides stability when print speeds are altered up or down. Just make sure rollers are in good condition, fount and alcohol are in balance and appropriate for the quality of your water supply. Plus make sure you use good quality inks.

 

If the komorimatic has the delta system its even better.
Delta system is the hickey picker damp system.
Works great.

 

Doh! How could I forget Delta effect!? Cheers 5150'

This has the effect of reducing hickeys on the plate by gearing the forme dampener roller to a slightly slower speed than the plate cylinder.

Now I have to say I haven't run Heidelbergs so I can't comment on the Alcolor system, but I'd be interested to see if any pressmen out there have used both Komori and Heidlbergs and their opinions of both dampening systems.

 

Actually , both dampening systems are good. HD is slightly better, since komori has a weekness , The bronze rollers. HD offers the vario, similar to Delta, but its sold as an extra , Is delta also sold as an extra?

 

Mechanic, Can you please go into more detail as to why you feel the bronze rollers are a weekness. I always felt that komori's delta system was better until I started having problems with dampening chattering. I know its the water form because once i remove the gears on the roller the chattering disappears but the hickies appear. Has anybody else had this problem? If so any solutions?

 

Our new encoder - Lower priced and easy to replace.
Automatic double sheet detector - Preventing expensive impression cylinder and gear damage No adjustment needed.
Komori ink key motor - motor and potentiometer for rebuilding available.

Dear Komori users
If you have problems like, dampening roller chattering, repeated error 7 or OV(over voltage) problems, you may need to replace the encoder on a dampening motor.
We have a low cost and easy to replace Komori encoder.

We rebuild your troubled ink key motor modules.
Also potentiometers and motors are available from us.

Do you have Eyekom double sheet detector problem?
Or have you had long down time caused by sheet jam up?
We have automatic double-sheet-detector, please e-mail us for detail and questions
.
We ship all our products world wide.

Best regards
Grapha Inc.

Author: Grapha Inc.

 

I quote from another chat room. I dont Khow if its any good to change the encoder, but it makes sence.

Now , the bronze rollers need a lot of maintenance, otherwise your daamp doesnt work well.

 

OK...bronze? And which rollers would those be?

If you're referring to the oscillating copper riders then what kind of extra maintenance do you think they require?

Copper is the most appropriate metal for intermediate rollers since they have good oleophilic properties, preventing ink blinding - the drawback used to be they would be only copper plated and would wear out.

Komori copper rollers aren't plated, they're actually solid copper tubes but this makes them very expensive: other press manufacturers use plastic or Rilsan coated rollers for cheapness.

Have you got oscillating copper rider rollers? if so just check that the rider roller gear isn't coming to or off the edge of the forme gear during its endstroke. This can cause the gears to exhibit the same effect as you describe. It's a simple matter to adjust the gear on the rider via the grubscrew holding it in position.

 

yes, i mean the copper rollers and i am refering to the oxidation of the roller material

 

Excuse me? You've actually seen this yourself then?

Ok... I know copper can oxidise, but I've run Komori's for years and have yet to see any, repeat, any oxidation.

Just had a good look at our 2001 L626 and can see no evidence whatsoever of oxidation.

We had a 1994 L428 that had copper riders which we didn't use much - when we took the press out about 2 years ago one got left behind and has been at the back of the spares cupboard for a good 10 years - guess what...no oxidation.

Maybe there's an incompatible additive in the fount that might attack copper - but I've never heard of it.

 

KOmorimatic Damping

How do you set the rollers in a Komorimatic system. I have bought a used Komri LP44 and need help with setting the new damping rollers

 

Dear RichardK,

Could you explain about EPIC Delta Damp. What is the different between Komorimatic Damp and EPIC.

regards,
Leo

 

Back in the nineties we did a test where we took all the oscillators out of 1 unit of a L40 and covered half in heidelbergs plastic/nylon so the rollers were half copper half plastic. We then did various tests using a brunner form on each side of the plate using different inks and founts testing print quality. The copper side was better for ink transfer and slightly sharper but not enough difference to be remarkable. One interesting thing was the copper preffered gum based founts, the nylon more synthetic and more acid founts. Microscopic examination of the rollers surfaces showed the nylon to be more porous, holding fount particles and ink pigment more easily.
The copper rollers in a komori are 2mm copper tube over steel, not plating, so are very durable. In my experience they will resist ink stripping better than plastic rollers and are easier to keep in good condition. They don't oxidise as such but can tarnish, this can be removed with abrasive liquid like T Cut. Products like Brasso or other metal polish tend to leave a coating on the copper making it less effective.

YG

 

That's very interesting posts Yorkshire.
I used Komorimatic Damp system but now I found one Komori with Epic Delta Dampening in the market. Do you have any experience about EPIC Damp and pls explain. thanks.

Leo

 

Typically 5mm W meter to Y chrome, 5mm Y chrome to V form, 6mm V form to Plate with 4mm X bridge to V form and X Bridge to A Form

 

In regard to "oxidation" of copper rollers:
This is a complex assessment that must be done in conjunction with metallurgists. To trace the issue of copper corrosion can be contributed to a factor of contamination from water source, etch additive and copper purity simultaneously. Happened on one press from a few running the same conditions and variables in one shop. *Expensive*
Tarnish I use BonAmi or Bar Keepers Friend

 

I have a 95 komori lithrone 526 and the ink smuts on start and takes about 25 impressions to clean up and also smuts through out the job on the sides. The press at the moment is running non alcohol. The press is designed to run 5% alcohol also. Was wondering if i started running alcohol what will be the effects on my metering rollers. Could it shorten the life of the rollers? thank you.

 

Is this happening on all units? Make sure your roller settings are correct. Alcohol should not cause any damage to the rollers.

 

Has this started all of a sudden or was it from day 1 with 0% alcohol? Zero alcohol tends to require clean source H2O and a darned good fount additive, damp rollers in good condition with appropriate rubber compound.

Adding alcohol will lower surface tension, allowing a thinner, more even damp film...at the expense of being less eco-friendly. But you should get clean startups.