ink problems with t head

Everything I've given you are factory specs. Straight out of the tech training manuels, some paraphrasing. The Pro aquamatic system is designed for acid base fountain solution, distilled water, 14° baum gum arabic, and 8 oz is standard with 99% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol per quart. A gallon of fountain solution is generally mixed with no alcohol. Take the quart water bottle add 8 oz. of alcohol and top off with premix. Use straight premix in T-Head. A gallon is good for a week. Don't foget to lubricate your bushings, I recommend 85-90 SAE Gear oil. Gear oil works great on chains and cylinder gears.

 

Im not sure what kind of watering system on the main i have but give you a few details maybe you can tell me. Has right and left squeeze adjustments that go from 0 i believe to 6 not sure. loosen allen screws higher number more squeeze. also to adjust, loosen bolts on im going to call it an L bracket. loosen inside lock nut turn inside bolt that rides on an oblong bushing. Turn inside bolt to raise or lower carriage. Hope that helps. I wrote down the chemicals and here they are. Ab dick non chorinated roller and blanket wash re order number 4-1200-5. Is that just like solex.? can i use that on the 9910? Looks like it is old but almost full 5 gal. Next is Van son smooth-lith anti offset smoothe lay compound. What is this for? And is it usefull for the 9910. Last 100% pure gum arobic soulition. What can i use this for and is it for a 9910. thanks. kb.

 

Your smooth lith is a great thing to have helps your ink dry faster I use mine in the high tack inks, it helps tone down the tackyness. Gum Arabic is good stuff I don't really use it ever tho. And that should be very similar to the solex but if it's really old just get rid of it not worth trying and having it contaminate your rollers

 

Wow smooth lith. I haven't seen/used that stuff in many years. How well does it run in ink with poly plates? The only ink additive I've used with poly plates is aqua varnish in some gloss varnish to increase the tack for a spot varnish I did.

 

Sounds like you have a 9910D or an after market installation of the Kompac water system, the Kompac water system adds a third form to the original configuration. No alcohol should be necessary with this system; mix fountain solution as recommended by the manufacturer or a little less. If you use Pro 3, start with 1/2 oz. per quart unless you use hard water (450 mho's and up) increase by doubling concentrate. (1) Unplug press (2) Place 1 inch strips of 20lb. bond about an inch and a half in from each of the side frames between the nip of the form roller and metering roller, roll in strips a couple inches. Loosen set screws on top of frames. Put a tool in the large hole and adjust till getting an even drag when pulling on strips. After getting an even drag on both sides check to see if the settings are on #1 on both sides, thats good, if not, there is a small hole with small sloted screw cap, remove cap , don't drop it. Take a small allen, a 3/32 I think (damn I getting old), not sure I'd have to go look, too lazy and too tired. Loosen set screw inside and adjust number ring till both are set at 1, lock all set screws and recheck drag. At a setting of 1 getting a firm drag on both sides remove strips adjust settings to 2 and install plate, roll up plate solid with ink, engage dampener form to plate and disengage. Roll around and review the stripe on the plate, require an 1/8 strip, max 5/32. adjust by loosening both adjustment locking 7/16 bolts between the press side frame and the Kompac side frame. Adjust eccentric hex head and lock both bolts. Check stripe and readjust if necessary. (3) Plug press back in.

 

I have had only 1 experience with ABDick non-clorinated blanket and roller wash. Over 3 days I adjusted rollers,deglazed rollers, replaced rollers, tried different inks, checked paper acidity, cleaned and recleaned Itek silvermaster platemaker. Still toning issues. ABDick wash non-clorinated? Nah, its an O.E.M. product, decided to try some Masterlith roller wash from a customer that has no problems, WOW, no toning or scumming problems. Tried several plates problem gone. Rewashed the press with the non-chlorinated wash, no problem for 3 washes problem back, imagine that. One of the horror stories by learnin with cause and effect (trial and error some say).

 

Don't know i only run metal plates im sure it runs good with poly tho too its just a ink drying additive

 

Yep the last time I used it was years ago with metal plates too. Back when rubberbase inks were introduced and they were thick as tar. Adding smooth lith to it was like spreading peanut butter ontop of jelly. LOL until it finally worked it's way in. But reduced the ink nicely and ran well with the old Itek electrostatic plates. Poly plates are pretty sensitive and not very forgiving sometimes. I try to never use additives and only use oil base inks with them. For a while I did try a 50-50% mix of oil and acrylic but drying time became a issue and went to all oil base only, problem solved. It's funny with all the advancements in printing poly still retains the old 2 part megalith chemistry. It does work well though.

 

Im just going to get rid of that chlorinated blanket wash. Not going to take the risk. The other day and about 2 weeks ago the 9910 just shut off. I had been running it pretty hard but, it started right up again. It acted like it was getting hot to me. Is there an automatic shutoff switch or sensor to check.? Another question of why?. I didn't have the t head on so it wasn't running anything extra.

 

Could have had an arc happen which would make it lose power and shut down check all your wires make sure they are covered and not shortin somewhere, a arc can also be from too much static electricity in the press

 

I put a new blanket on the 9910, how often should you deglaze the blanket. approx. running 10 to 15,000 a day. And how often should you replace. The new blanket made a huge difference. The t head and press is running the best it ever has thanks to you guys help. thanks kb

 

If you clean your blanket off regularly it shouldn't need a deglazing and a good blanket can last me overa year but I'm not doing 10 to 15k runs everyday maybe about that much goes thru ours a month. If I were running mine that much I would probably do a bi weekly schedule for blankets rest one two weeks then switch till you think you need new ones this should help them last a bit longer too. You should be able to get 250k impressions on a good blanket before its toast just make sure your running minimal blanket pressure with a good looking lay so they will last you till that 250k mark. What kind of blankets you using? Blue satin?

 

Yes, blue satin. Soft blanket. I got 2 extra and so your saying i should rotate them.?

 

Yes rotating them is a good idea otherwise your blanket gets no time to puff back up to where its suppose to be just gets flattened and stretched out if it's not rested, you know how a old blanket feels just like a pancake no give to it really. Blue stains are the best!

 

This will restore the blanket backing from minor low spots. Take off the blanket and soak the back in water, this will swell the material then let dry for a couple weeks. Installing a damp blanket will cause it to mildew. The rubber normally does not get damaged, the backing is what takes a beating, scrub the rubber surface with solvent and warm water to remove ink, paper, and gum on a flat surface to clean it prior to soaking. Blankets with pin holes, cuts, or damaged rubber are still good for embossing and perforating.

 

Using a spare blanket for envelopes will help save your "good" blanket. I get at least a year out of a set of Ryobi blankets. My envelope blankets are 2 years old and still kickin.

 

The only problem with that FFR is that i have to switch from letterheads, to envelopes and can't take the time to switch out blankets. But i will switch out every couple of weeks. I have 2 extra blankets along with the one i just put on. i got the seals and bushings and got them in. The bushings didn't help as much as i would like them to. I think the ink roller is worn to much.I keep having to ink up the ends of the rollers to keep a good even lay. Amazing though how easy a new blanket cleans up. I found a manual for a 9800 series. Is that about the same as a 9910. Havnt really been able to look at it to see what the difference is. The carriage that holds the paper is still jumping up and is not raising evenly. Can't quite figure that out. Chains are good and loose. It works, there is just a dead spot, when it gets by that it is ok.

 

There are some differences but mostly the same. Additional safety switch on the handwheel of the 9910. No varible speed pulley; DC drive. There may be a bent tooth on the sprocket causing the chain to jump an slip back.

 

Get a set of quick set blanket bars makes changing blankets a ease takes me 15 mins to switch from letterhead to env. And that's one two heads. Trust me doing this helps a lot because envelopes really trash blankets due to the change in thickness throughout the envelope.

 

^^^ x's 2. Yep I can change 2 blankets with underpack in under 4 min.