Heidelberg SORMZ Presses

Discussion in 'Heidelberg Printing Presses' started by Color Printing Forum Admin, May 6, 2007.

  1. Color Printing Forum Admin

    Color Printing Forum Admin Administrator

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    This thread is for general discussion of Heidelberg SORMZ Presses.

    Please post:
    • interesting information sources on SORMZs
    • photos that you would be willing to share of SORMZ presses, overviews or specific parts photos
    • diagrams, or any other useful or interesting information that you can share.
    • general SORMZ information, SORMZ tips & tricks, SORMZ resources
    (For specific questions, please start a new thread with a separate detailed title and description.)
     
  2. sorm

    sorm Member

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    <edit sorry, correct you are. Not sure where the sorm video went.>
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2007
  3. ob1

    ob1 Member

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    Sorry to tell you but that is not a Sorm
     
  4. sorm

    sorm Member

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    Blah. Right you are. Copy copy cut and paste mismash at its best.
     
  5. sriranjith

    sriranjith Senior Member

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    I have 1978 Heidelberg SORMZ:2 color 20” X 29”, Standard damps, chrome impression cylinders, True 6 million impressions, sheet decurler, new rollers, new motors, new compressors, spray powder, Manuals, Tools, Dollies, extra rollers , new blankets, etc. TAvailable immediately .Call 972-746-2053 for more details or send mail to dallasdealer@gmail.com
     

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  6. adaboy

    adaboy Member

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    They don't crawl?

    I've never run a Heidelberg that doesn't crawl. Did they make it this way or should I assume a relay is out ?!
    One more thing...half of the forms don't rock when I unlock 'em. I imagine the end cups are gunked up. Are the cups supposed to be greased or dry?
     
  7. Machinist

    Machinist Member

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    "I've never run a Heidelberg that doesn't crawl"
    Heidelberg 2/c S-Offset shipped with crawl motors in mid 80's

    "half of the forms don't rock when I unlock 'em"
    Are you saying two of four forms rollers are not dropping to the plate cylinder?

    "Are the cups supposed to be greased or dry?"
    If the journal cup is in good condition, grease em' up. It only helps to keep them that way.
     
  8. adaboy

    adaboy Member

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    All of the forms drop to the plate.
    #4 will oscillate fine,
    #3 occassionally stops,
    #2 works if I push the end in a couple times,
    #1 refuses to budge.

    All forms have a 3mm stripe to the oscillator and to the plate is also 3mm.

    When I first started on this press, I noticed the problem immediately. So I looked at the cups and they were dry. So I put a little grease in there. They don't seem to be any better.
     
  9. Machinist

    Machinist Member

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    Ahh, I understand now. You are talking about "oscillating" the ink forms. If you are pulling out the journal cup part way and the ink form doesn’t oscillate I would check the following…

    Remove ink form rollers and check condition of journal cups. Feel with your finger that there isn’t a ridge on the I.D. of the cup. Also take a loose bearing (66.009.091) and make sure it fits snuggly in the cup. There shouldn’t be any excess clearance for the bearing to move up and down in the cup.

    Check the condition of the ball bearings on the ends of the ink forms. Looking at a new bearing you’ll see that the outside race has a radius (crown) make sure this hasn’t been worn flat.

    I doubt any of the following is causing your problem but it wouldn’t hurt to check the condition of the rubber roller surface. Is it glazed or rock hard? Check with a durometer. You also may want to increase your stripe to the rilsan vibrator to 4mm.

    As a side note, you only want to let the ink forms oscillate when you have a difficult job (e.g. ghosting) otherwise keep the journal cups pushed in. Letting them oscillate continually will wear the journal cups grease or no grease. Plus your plate life is reduced.
     
  10. adaboy

    adaboy Member

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    Thanks, when I go through the unit I'll check carefully for any wear. I didn't think of looking for these things the first time I changed the forms. It really helps to have your input, sorry I wasn't clear in the beginning. I will reinstall them with the 4mm nip. They aren't glazed over at this point (that was a very good point too!) , and the durometer will indeed be a significant step in eliminating the cause. The only time I oscillate them is for ghosting. Do you mind, just one one more thing? Is it better to oscillate specific forms, like 2 & 4, or all of them at once? I'm thinking not to use #1 as it would be integrated and throw off the water distribution.
     
  11. Machinist

    Machinist Member

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    “Is it better to oscillate specific forms, like 2 & 4, or all of them at once?”

    Oscillate the white (#1) and red (#3) form rollers when needed. Using another combination will most likely cause you trouble such as tinting etc.
     
  12. adaboy

    adaboy Member

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    Thanks Machinist, my hats off. You've been extremely helpful.
     
  13. trebor

    trebor Member

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    Hello. I have recently moved onto a Heidelberg Sormz. Its an 1984 model apparently but it looks a lot older;). We run mainly line work. I want to run the first unit on its own. I want the spray running and the clock so I remove the blanket on unit 2 and pin the inking rollers. I find this odd that you must have the un-used unit (unit 2) on impression to let the above function is this correct..?

    The Pan roller (conventional Damping) on unit 1 on Drive side there is a metal hook that engages onto the spindle on pan roller not sure what it does...?

    The ink duck on Unit 2, when you have the ink keys open far enough for a full out solid, ink drips down onto the roller below..?

    Im sure there are loads more things that I have yet to discover. Anyone help with these

    Thanks Rob
     
  14. trebor

    trebor Member

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    And so, Well its just me running a Sormz then,,,,,,,? Well I really thought that the litho was dead, nevr to return..? I think Im wining though. My sormz needed a bloody good clean. Its been raini8ng fountain solution from unit one for about 1 week. It was time to sort out the problem as I had a full out 74cm sheet to print. The press has standard molten damping nothing fancy, it turned out to be a bad seal in the fountain taank, which kept over flowing the fount tray. Bugger

    The next problem is the blowers in the delivery, which provide a blast of air in a down ward direction., The air blast is fine but there is a mist of oil as well onto the paper, this is no good and I have to run the press slower to delivery the sheet in an orderly manner.
     

  15. junker1984

    junker1984 Senior Member

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    Hi Trebor - Oil misting out the blow down tubes would likely be one of two things, either the main compressor (likely a Rietschle oil lubricated, steel vane type, unless someone has updated) is in need of seals, causing oil to "blow by" on its way to the tubes, or an oil leak coming from the oscillator bushings or any number of oil lines may be loose, if the pump is causing the problem, its easy enough to prove that, pull the air hose hooked up to the nipple for the blow downs and see if there is oil in it...if this were the case, you would likely see oil misting out of the feeder suction head blast orifices also. If the output of the pump is dry, then take a look at the gear side where the air line connection to the tubes are, see if there is oil somhow seeping into the tubes there (not very likely, but worth a look). Good Luck! Steve
     
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