Plate Image is Fading after xxx-impressions

your silence speeks volumes

 

Rolandman:
Have you read my post, here it is again just in case you missed it. It seems weird that a few were interested to find out what wnchstr156 was talking about.. I have posted regarding the chemistry and no one has bothered to ask for further info.

As for the chemicals that wnchstr156 is talking about, yes they do differ from the standard founts / ink found on the market today; but if it is a mechanical issue on the press no form of chemicals will fix it.

Put breifly the chemistry he is talking about consists of the following:
Fountain solution - Runs alcohol free and contains zero alcohol replacments, contains zero solvents, it will not affect the tack, body or drying capabilities of ink, ink film is not altered or increased from fountian solution solvency. It gives you the ability to run a thinner ink and water film.
You also run lighter roller stripes to the plate. By reducing the roller pressure and friction generated against the plate grain, a wider window of operation is available throughout the press run and overall plate life is extended (this fount is to be used with the ink below

Ink - It is a high solids ink; 100% of what is in the can is colours (there to do its job produce colour) the ink contains no fillers or agents to fight against the solvency of standard fountain solutions or IPA, This ink will only work with the fountain solution above.
Normal ink is made up of roughly 75% - 80% colours, the rest is fillers binders etc to help it fight against the solvency of solvent based founts / IPA altering its tack, body etc

Benefits from using this products are
Extended roller life (lighter roller stripes = less friction)
Extended plate life
Reduction in VOC's and elimination of SARA 313, HAP's and Prop 65 chemicals
Less ink used
Faster drying

 

I have a tech here right now going back through the press. We are running a 20k job that is 2/6. I ran into the same problem especially on the one unit specifically. I am running powder at a bare min. but still lost the image after 7500. So far he has found that the pressure in that specific unit was much too heavy between the plate/blanket. This blows him away because he had reset it just last month.

 

The tech had made some more minor adjustments which seems to help. The biggest improvement of all was switching from a tack-12 to a tack-14. I get double run lengths on the plates but it still is not where it should be. I need to really examine my fountain solution and make adjustments.

If there is anybody out there running Crestlines and Poly Plates i would like to hear what you are using and your mix ratio's. That goes for everybody but i know that what may work on Kompacs may not work with Crestlines. I have always filled the position before and never started out from scratch on an unfamilar press. All of the ratio/ brands everything was all figured out before hand.

Thanks again for all of your responses.

 

That really sounds like a lot, ours suggests between 2-4oz per gallon. What kind of dampening system are you running?

 

I will wash up between sides and even during runs when it gets bad

 

With you Kodak system, what do you mean your pre-press dept guys were mixing it wrong? Were they the ratio wrong?

 

Call the guys at Nikken and get a sample of Extreme QSD-III. I run a 9995 and had the same problems when we installed it. Now I get 50-60 before the plate looses def. I mix mine at 7 oz. per gallon. And the blanket to plate pressure will cause bad things to happen. What mil. plates do you run? We run 8mil. plates here.

 

Since this is a late responds. To VanQuill-printing.
The too much pressure between plate and blanket.
You said the tech set it correct the first time and when he rechecked it and it was too much pressure between the plate and blanket.
Do you use an underblanket? If you do use an under blanket the blankets you're suppose to use are 4ply. If you don't it suppose to be 5 ply. You could have gotten a wrong ply blanket on the press.

 

Dwade55

I am buying a ryobi 3302 and would like to know how to solve this problem if it occurs.

 

Please let me know how to do that, I've been having the same problems for a while. I'm alway open to try new procedures.

 

It seems you are having issues with calcium carbonate build up that is coming from the paper.Replace the fountain solution and then add 1/4 oz of Cal Cutter per gallon of fountain solution (Mixed) Cal Cutter is an Anchor product and works like magic

 

Tell Meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Pls!!!!

 

Anything else you need help with feel free to post

 

I'M BACK!!!!! Sorry Guys! I was in a bad car accident right after I posted that and honestly I had forgotten all about this site. On the up side my son was born a few months later and that made it even easier to forget. LOL Luke and I have spoken in the past and he is dead on. The problem starts with IPA and it's substitutes. While they work fine for stonger metal plates they tear up poly and paper plates. The subtitutes also breaks down and mixes with ink causing it to dry slower, so the ink Companies mix more waxes and dryers. Anyone that runs Poly plates and has tried to mix dryer in the ink to make it a certain job dry faster can tell you how bad this is. What also seems to help is a plant based ink. They are much better these days. I have been running the ink and fountain Luke was talking about, which is a matched set. Alcohol Sub destroys this ink. Van Son's Quick Son Pro is mostly plant based but still has the dryers. You could try that to start but it may not help. Just to clarify almost all other fountain solutions have an alcohol sub so adding more to it in my experience is a bandaid that will come off and bleed again. The ink and Fountain I use is called Habitat, other companies may be making something similar by now but I haven't heard.

Once again sorry for the Silence. It wasn't intentional