Plate imaging via laser or inkjet HELP

Discussion in 'Platemaking' started by VZD180i, Jun 3, 2009.

  1. VZD180i

    VZD180i Member

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    This must be a dome question?

    I would realy like to know what to use to make positives to burn onto the plate. Lets start at the beginning.
    1. I have Heidelberg QM46-2 press.
    2. I still use light and chemicals to develop my plates.
    But i am having really big problems with the printing of the positives. My question is. What is the best method to use: Laser film or trancparencies, laser printer or inkjet printer.

    I cant seem to get really acurate reproduction from posi to plate.

    Please can somebody help me :confused:
     
  2. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    try using laser film, with a postscript laser printer, to get better halftones.
    print in reverse is the key, so the image on the film is in direct contact with the coating of the plate.
     
  3. Tahir khan

    Tahir khan Member

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    Hello' i am Tahir , are you using positives ctf [computer to film ] they are good in quality & produce good result.If not try ctf , if you are using ctf then cheack your developer its life its temperature exposure time distance between plate and light ,light source & vacum of the exposing frame to make sure film contact.i hope it will work .;)
     
  4. VZD180i

    VZD180i Member

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    Thank you.

    I am using laser film in reverse print. O yes and i thougt my MPC2500 had postscript 3 built in but i gussed wrong. I have tried to dilute the developer a bit. Seems to work better, and have checked the temp, also made a difference. Think I am on the right road now. But another qeustion that has been bugging me. What type of light do you use. Metal halide, uv . . . . I think my current setup isnt that up to scratch.
     
  5. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    postscript 2 is fine, and i use kodak plates and burn them under uv light for about 3 mins, depending on the halftones, trial and error on this one. Developer straight out of the container and hand developed with a sponge, never had a problem with it whether its winter or summer.
     
  6. VZD180i

    VZD180i Member

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    Whats te Wattage of your uv lamp?
     
  7. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    there is 4 lamps at i think 3000 watt each. Try printing in black and white and set it to postscript level 2 at 150 lpi to start and work from there
     
  8. VZD180i

    VZD180i Member

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    Thats exactly where my problem lies. The one i use has 6 normal 24w uv lamps. So i dont think it has the power to burn the image solid as it should be. Thats were my problem lies, thus i have to compensate with the chemicals.
     
  9. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    you could buy a second hand platemaker, as so many people have gone over to ctp there is a load of these around going cheap i imagine
     
  10. VZD180i

    VZD180i Member

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    Yes that is what i must do. But I cant realy find one nearby. All of them is in Durban or Capetown (south Africa) :). What make is yours maybe I can shop around for one here.
     
  11. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    Mine is an old JJ Huber, but there are a few like the parker countess and like that will be sufficient to do the job.
     
  12. plotter

    plotter Senior Member

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    you could make one, if you already have a vacuum frame, all you need are the bulbs, and the fittings which are standard screw ins... maybe worth a try
     

  13. Prepressing

    Prepressing Member

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    A second hand platesetter may be the way to go, but if you are going to look into inkjet based systems, you can visit the following page:
    http://rti-rips.com/CTPSystems.html

    Uses standard Epson inks with no modifications on the Epson itself.
     
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