L528 Ink Key Settings

Hi,
Have a slight problem with ink duct key settings on L528. On the 4th unit we have to wind the keys out on the PQC to get sufficient ink on the press to print a half decent image. For example a small solid square of about 10cm by 15cm needs an ink duct setting of 35 on the keys and a sweep of around 50. Is there a setting in the PQC that can change the ratio of PQC to 'physical' setting on the the press similar to the H/M/L water settings on start up. The roller setting are fine and the press is packed correctly. You can see that the keys have not opened enough to let ink through in the duct.

Cheers
Andy

I think you need to rezero the ink keys. They might be too tight against the ink fountain roller.
1. lock up the fountain.
2. zero all the ink keys on the PQC.
3. set the sweep to 99.
4. put the press in idle and see if the fountain roller has ink on it or are the keys so tight against the roller that all is see is the metal roller it self while the roller is turning.
5. with the press on idle speed adjust the ink keys manually until you can see a fine even film of ink across the fountain roller.
6. depending how old your press is. you either have to turn the manual adjustment clockwise or counterclockwise to open the keys.

Andy

We would like to help you if we can , feel free to call us and one of our technicians will advise you.

Martin Kennedy
sales@kenmartuk.com
01622 891521

5150pressman said:

I think you need to rezero the ink keys. They might be too tight against the ink fountain roller.
1. lock up the fountain.
2. zero all the ink keys on the PQC.
3. set the sweep to 99.
4. put the press in idle and see if the fountain roller has ink on it or are the keys so tight against the roller that all is see is the metal roller it self while the roller is turning.
5. with the press on idle speed adjust the ink keys manually until you can see a fine even film of ink across the fountain roller.
6. depending how old your press is. you either have to turn the manual adjustment clockwise or counterclockwise to open the keys.

Click to expand...

Hi just one note after setting to zero on the PQC you need to turn thr PQC off before manually re-setting. Dont re-set with the PQC on.
Kind Regards
Paul.

HI Andy P.
Need any free help and advice just drop me an email paul@komori-demonstrator.co.uk
Kind Regards
Paul.
PS You cant go far wrong with advice from Martin Kennedy what he dosnt know about Komoris isnt worth knowing.

Also, make sure none of the 100 bars are flashing when you shut the console off. Press the "Lock" button for the flashing key twice to release the flashing. If any keys are flashing before turning off the console to adjust the keys, the console will try to return the key to it's previous position if you release the flashing after manually setting the keys. This can cause much head scratching, teeth grinding, and occasional hair pulling.

HI Andy P.
If you are still getting the leds flashing after locking ad unlocking you will need to strip the duct and keys down and clean just remember to put the keys back in the same order that you removed them.
Kind Regards
Paul.

KOMORI DEMONSTRATOR said:

HI Andy P.
If you are still getting the leds flashing after locking ad unlocking you will need to strip the duct and keys down and clean just remember to put the keys back in the same order that you removed them.
Kind Regards
Paul.

Click to expand...

And don't drop them and don't remove the dead keys, the keys are numbered in case they get mixed up. Paul, I see you've been through the ordeal. I think you would agree that it's best to hire someone with experience as getting that last key in is tricky and there are a lot of techniques that can be gained only through experience.

If the little plungers are stuck, you have to remove all the lever mechanisms and clean them and the plungers making sure that the lever mechanisms are returned in the same order. Usually, the motors don't have to be removed but if they are, don't soak them in presswash or any solvent. Clean the gear train with contact cleaner that is safe on plastics such as CRC. Not their motor cleaner but the "QD" contact cleaner. I bed the keys in a mixture of grease and oil and put a line of grease on the lip at the front of the fountain to prevent ink entering under the front of the keys. Make sure the blade is not bent. If a key won't close completely, cut a "U" shaped shim from some plate material and place it between the lever mechanism and the back of the fountain where the socket head screw holds the lever mechanism.

Hi klecman/Andy I admit it can be a little tricky i get plenty of practise working as a Komori Demonstrator especally on callouts on older presses. But dont be put of you just need a little patience.
Goog Luck Guys,

Paul.

KOMORI DEMONSTRATOR said:

Hi klecman/Andy I admit it can be a little tricky i get plenty of practise working as a Komori Demonstrator especally on callouts on older presses. But dont be put of you just need a little patience.
Goog Luck Guys,

Paul.

Click to expand...

I've just retired from 20 years of doing electrical work on Komoris. I got sucked into doing fountains because the symptoms appear electrical to anyone not familiar with sticking keys. I got called to one job where someone had taken virtually every part off the fountain, including the dead keys. Took about 2 hours to find that 3 microns of tolerance. But that's the real key, keep plodding away at it. That diamond plate sure gets hard after about 6 hours though. As a demonstrator, I'm sure you've had your share of sticking fountain keys. The new ones seem a lot better now they did away with that painfully complex lever and spring arrangement.

The good part about cleaning fountains is that when up to your elbows in ink, people don't bother you asking how they can get a job like yours.

For anyone interested, you can check if a key is sticking by openning the key, either with the adjusting knob or from the console, and prying it slightly toward the ball with a screwdriver. If the key doesn't spring back, it is sticking. Confirm this by dropping the fountain and pressing the key back toward you. If the key moves, you can be sure it has a sticking problem usually due to dried ink that got under the metal cover. The cam on the lever moves the key toward the ball and the spring in the center of the key pushes it open so you are more likely to notice a sticking key by the key not openning or suddenly opening by a large amount.

If you notice fresh ink under the sheet metal cover, flush it out as soon as possible with press wash and lubricate liberally with press oil. Gumout carburettor cleaner works very well to wash the ink from between the keys but be careful, it will damage plastics and is probably not good for the rollers.

Its not fun when you don't put the ink in good contact with the magnets on the keys and the ink goes all the way down to the motors!!!!!
Not a pretty site.

I had one customer who while dumping a second can of ink was wondering why that unit was using so much. Then he looked at his boots covered with blue ink. The worst is the varnish unit. I had one in which all the motors were glued in solid with dried varnish. Since all the motors were still working I advised the customer to just leave it alone until a problem appeared. Otherwise we would have to tear the wiring loose to get them out. I cleaned the keys and gear trains and never heard any more about it.

If the metal blade is not screwed down tight with the thumbscrews, you can hook your belt on the edge and lift the blade without knowing it until it's too late.