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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    654

    Quote Originally Posted by ODCMAGAZINE View Post
    Where are the 2 screws
    Even though I'm pretty sure you've already solved this, for anyone reading this thread later, the fuser is super easy to remove from the machine. Once you pull out the fuser "drawer" looking from above the two screws closest to the outside (left) of the machine are the ones you remove and then it just lifts up and out. The two screws towards the inside of the machine fine tune the fuser pressure which you can do by performing a NIP check from the menu which sends a sheet of 8.5 x 11 from the bypass tray through and stops it for a moment in the fuser so you can see the "shape" baked into the toner and measure for pressure and evenness. At first we did this with every new fuser, but I never got one from canon that wasn't spot on so I stopped doing the NIP checks.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nor Cal - USA
    Posts
    33

    Help With Replacing Rollers IRC3220 Canon

    Hi Jeff,

    Thanks for the reply, I have order and replaced the roller, it took about hour it is back together and working great. Now I am dealing with the Drums, you know of any place that offers refurbished or exchange empty for full ? And once you replace do you have to replace all?

    Thanks,
    Sean

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    654

    Good deal. And I'm glad to hear that it wasn't too bad to rebuild the fuser. I had feared it might be really tedious and I might have to do myself it if we keep an off-lease machine this coming year.

    I don't know anything about refurbishing drums. I don't think I'd risk it as long as there is some supply of oem drums out there below retail in the $225-$250 range. (ebay for example.) The only place I see online that mentions refurbished gpr-11 drums is MBS (mymbs.net) and I don't even find it through their main site, plus the cost is close enough to what you can get a new one right now it doesn't seem worth it. When our drums get to the point that tonality starts to get rough/harsh meaning the developer needs to be replaced, we also usually have one or more specific streak imperfections in the drum coating as well. (I see alibaba lists a non-oem irc3200 overseas drum roller itself in quantities of 100, but not sure where these are sold or to whom.) Also when are drums get to the 175-250% yield point they usually start leaking toner now, dropping it along the sides of the ITB where it eventually causes problems, so I'm not sure what else would have to be done to make it "good as new" again. At this point my bet is not worth it to refurbish a drum cartridge right now. Post though if you discover different - always good to learn new things.

    You definitely don't need to replace all at once. We only replace the specific color that is causing problems (and swap the old one in if we'll be doing a thousand or more where the specific quality defect is acceptable until it's absolutely spent.)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nor Cal - USA
    Posts
    33

    Thanks Once more

    Jeff,

    Thanks, you are a great source to kick around things with, as a new editor and publisher of a small magazine networking is key, and I value your knowledge. Again, thanks. We have been able to get our drums at a very good price $175.00.

    Happy New Year!

    Sean

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nor Cal - USA
    Posts
    33

    How To Replace or Empty the Waste Toner Container IMAGERUNNER IRC3220?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    654

    Quote Originally Posted by ODCMAGAZINE View Post
    How To Replace or Empty the Waste Toner Container IMAGERUNNER IRC3220?
    Open the front cover
    Lower the main blue lever (the one that lowers the itb assy or that you lower to change drums, just the blue one.)
    Then the translucent clear plastic waste toner container pulls right out so you can empty it.

    I find the easiest way to empty it is to remove the clear plastic neck - only thing is not to lose the two small clear thin plastic cones which are in the two holes. These are where the light shines through to tell the machine it's full. The old ones had 2 screws, the new ones only 1 screw. Pull the plastic "neck" off being careful to retain the two small thin plastic "cones" which are in the holes. Then I hold a bag over the neck tightly and empty the waste toner into it. Personally I find the easiest way to clean the clear plastic "cones" is with alcohol on a qtip; the techs warned that this could cloud them, but so far I haven't had a problem. The tech used air, but I usually use a little rubbing alcohol and also clean the clear plastic neck well at the same time.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Nor Cal - USA
    Posts
    33

    Thanks Jeff,

    She is all done. Work like a charm. Again Happy New Year!

    Sean

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  9. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    87

    Quote Originally Posted by Roland View Post
    Thank you Jeff. I am going to pull the unit as you suggested and look at the rollers. We do not run single large quantities as you do, but a lot of jobs throughout the month, about 35K a month total. Most of that on 11 x 17 100# dull coated text or 100# dull cover. We avoid gloss text, it starts to blister on the 2nd side, or the toner will smear and the sheet is really hot. We have tried all settings with gloss.
    Call Mohawk Paper and ask them to send you 50 sample sheets of 12x18 #80 and #100 of their color copy gloss...it runs great in digital machines like my Canon IR C3220's...stay away from Sterling Ultra Digital Gloss....it will not run well in toner baser machines....

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